Rad change is advisable at that age, there are recommendations that they're replaced every 100k or so, due to clogging issues, and it certainly won't do any harm. It's also worth picking up a brass drain plug to replace the original plastic one in your new rad, as they're very weak and the heads...

Had to do a double-take when I read the title on this one....I though you were suggesting an engine swap!:doh::doh:;)

That's a bit of an empty comment, Why? I've no complaints about the stuff and the service I've had from them.

Try this one..... Air Compressor, After Market, ANR3731

Rover Renovations also offer an upgraded pump, although it's reportedly slightly louder than the original.

I've used them before too without a problem, although they are ocassionally a bit slow in responding to emails.

Can anyone help with a part number for the bar that sits at the rear of the A-bar (STC8501AA - the one with the stainless bar), for fitting spot lights? I thought I'd found it in STC8883, but this must be for the plain plastic A-bar as it's about 5-6" too short!

^^^^wot e said^^^^ mine's wrapped in tape to shut it up.

The free software is there too, but you'll need an EAS specfic cable too, either from fleabay or the plans are there to make your own. Then you'll be able to pinpoint the problem. In the meantime........The pump running is a start; however that doesn't always mean it's providing air, the...

Be fair! It's not the cars fault some dick changed the socket.

Quite a bit of Island stuff seems to be ****part too! so ask before ordering. You could try p38spares on fleabay for a set of Arnott Gen2's, they make a noticable improvement, both on and off road, although they're a bit dearer they do have a lifetime warranty.

In theory the AC fans should only kick in if the rest of the system can't reach the right temp without them; therefore unless your AC is showing a fault i.e. book symbol when set on max chill, they are probably operating correctly, just not needed.

The Aussies, used to these high weather temps, recommend replacing P38 rads every 90-100k, as they clog with crap!

it's nwer than a p38, it's gotta be sport or l322 more likely given it's size. The bonnet gives it away, far to rounded at the corners.

Yes strictly they are; however I had little difficulty popping them out with a fine blade, scrubbed em out, and then popped em back in with a smear of clear silcone to reseal em. Then you just have to make sure the rear seals are clean and seated properly to stop the crap getting in there again...

Ooopps, maybe I was wrong:doh:, but I hope not, good luck with it, otherwise we may be seeing a lot of you on ere:D

:welcome2: Steve. Any LR's gotta be an improvement on a Vitara, but what did you get?

Which timewarp are you living in? I haven't seen a Chevette on the road in about 10 years, apart from a couple at classic shows:D;)

You need to download RAVE from Greenoval and you'll find all the info you need. There will be plugs there for towbar leccy. Probably similar to my p38 which has one on drivers side for main trailer leccy, and one on pass side for additional socket.

A recent Which study concluded there was little advantage in running the premium stuff. Some people swear by it but it's never made any difference in my experience, and I reckon they're just finding it's helping cover some slight problem with the tune/mantainance of their engine. P38 should...