aup mate the shims are there to determine the tension on the bearings and are set by using a spring balance onto the arm where the front track rod (drag link) fits, so that needs removing along with the main track rod, the cv joint and stub axle. more shims = less tension less shims = more...

can you not turn the swivel to turn the bolt at the same time? put a slight angle on the swivel and pull towards you as you turn, an once the seal breaks it might turn with the spanner, it worked for the bottom pin, might work for the bolts too

can we also have a kill the thieving bastids fred as well?

took the lod gear boxs out the boot an carried them donw the garden and buggered my back up! bastid!

i have a full set of 300 calipers if your interested pm me

finished the transfer and gear box swap, it sounds so sweet now, kind of miss the clunk and rumble everytime i change gear now

took out old transfer and gear box and fitted new (well second hand one) just gotta put props back on an rivet the rubber back on top of the box and put the consol back in, oh an fill the boxes up with oil, oh and test drive it down a few nice lanes just to make sure diff lock an low range work

it was a brand new ball mate, i wiped up the oil today and it hasn't come back yet, so i either ran out of oil or the leak has settled:rolleyes:

buster showed me the way to fitting my front swivels at xmas and all was fine until today when i noticed that one shot had covered the swivel ball and was running onto the track rod and was very close to covering the break disc:eek: question is:- do i need to replace all seals and bearings or...

went to paddocks to fetch the oil seals for the tranny box, ready for fitting on saturday good news i didn't get any ****part bits the bad news, thought i'd do all the UJ's, an as i took off the front prop off i noticed the near side swivel had ****ed one shot all over the place:eek: bastid...

looks like a 2a or a 3 looking at the capping, can't really see that much, but tell him you want to save it an chuck loads of money at it

cleaned out the sedimentor bowl and then found the bottom intercooler hose was loose:doh: the times i've checked those hoses:frusty: i hope thats sorted out the smoke screen when towing the pikey wagon. i'll have to go on holiday to find out:D

leave it a few days an see if it settles down, mine did

yes britpart is ****! most of the stuff i put on a year ago has already been replaced with oem or original so it cost me twice to do a job i had to do twice, if that makes sence

if there brit part throw them in the bin an go an get a proper set otherwise you'll be doing them again in a years time if they last that long:rolleyes:

get used to it mate, you'll be spending a lot of time working on it, hopefully fitting bits on that you want and not things that break

took the wife's slitty in for it's yearly health check an it failed misserably 100 quid for two bloody wishbones:eek: an thats just for parts but she won't have it that a landy is chaper to run:rolleyes:

a spell checker:rolleyes: you'll be suprised what a standard disco can do, but make sure you have a good tow rope just in case

mine click too since i put new pads all round, does my bloody head in:frusty:

no worries mate! i didn't explain it that well to start with:o he's also used chemical metal in the engine block too to fill pits in the head gasket mating surface an it's still going strong, if it had been me i'd have done it properly, but the brother in law is as tight as a duck arse:rolleyes: