This looks a good one. As a TD5 one of the big things to look out for is the cylinder head, where they leak diesel into the sump and after a while go bang if it gets bad enough. Check the engine oil level and make sure it's not over the max mark and give it a good sniff! This fault is about...

It could be what's been said - a leaking matrix or the drain at the bottom of the heater intake bloked. OR ... It could be general water ingress, probably from the windscreen - bulkhead foam seal, leaking behind the dash soaking the foam noise insulation over the bell housing. This stores...

I cannot imagine why you might want Titanium bolts on a vehicle that is so overbuilt and heavy already? It's like putting them on a train FFS! Titanium is for aeroplanes and racing cars...

Ooops! Oh well the cover plate was a bit rusty anyway .... Thanks for sharing that Otto, great pics. :eek:

My guess is low oil in one of the gearboxes or rear diff. It's certainly what I would check first. While you're under there check the UJs out.

Were you towing Ratty? :D CharlseY is the expert on adjusting the injector pump, do a search in the freds. The pump I think will be delivering the same volume of fuel but air flow may be down. It may also be that the intercooler is covered in mud, blocking the cooling fins and making it...

:eek: Need I say more on H&S? Due to the spongy feel described I suspect hydraulic failure. It could be the master cylinder which can fail to shift the clutch but not leak fluid. Get someone to depress the clutch pedal while you watch the slave cylinder, it should move around an inch and...

Shifty, as usual, is right! But don't quote me on that :D

I think I'm getting night blind, or stupid.... No comments required.

Hi Popotla, I have the NK kit fitted to my 2002 90 TD5 CSW. The sound reduction is dramatic BUT... Nearly all the noise is coming up throgh the floor and the bulkhead both in above and below the bonnet line. I had some spare pieces left (the thick self adhesive pieces) and fitted those...

Hi JC, Yep I've been learning from the forum a lot too. I used to have General Grabber 235/85 std tyres which were inflated to the standard 28 PSI. I Now have Cooper M&S on there, wider at 265/75 and these are inflated to 32 as I think the front footprint was too big and the back too small...

Will try braking next time .... accelerating 'hard' (it's a defender...?! ;)) makes no difference. I know that if you leave a worn shock absorber on it proceeds to shag all the bushes around it, maybe I waited too long. :doh: If I just set to and replace thebushes I can check the swivel...

I like the cow idea but I think Fresian rather than Jersey She'll blend in more when laning :)

Yep a bit blingy aren't they. But I love the colour of that 90 :D

Thanks Andy, It's more the weight of the axle flaying around, it sort of destabilises the front of the 'car'. I've also put on a heavy duy steering damper which has helped. Swivel pre-load is a shimming job isn't it?

Hi all, When hitting a sequence of bumps on the road the front nearside wheel on my 90 CSW starts oscillating. So I replaced the shocks and the springs with some from TerraFirma and it improved dramatically but it still oscilates to an extent. Now I know the unsprung weight on a Defender is...

On my mate's 2008 XS Defender the traction control only works when in 1st gear low range, it also has anti-stall so you just cant stop the thing unless you put your foot on the clutch. Bloody fantastic off road, if a bit too easy!

Yeah, could be turbo oil seal more likely than head gasket. Remove the wire off the fuel cut off solenoid, stick it in 2nd gear low range and move it onto the drive using the starter motor.

Same diagnosis unless it's a TD5. Hot air gun... don't burn anything! :)

It might be that the steering box backlash adjuster has come loose, thereby getting worse and worse. Otherwise I think it would have to be the drop arm either loose or the ball joint fooked. It depends how long it has taken to get worse, days or several weeks. Days has got to be a loose bolt...