Understood. I think I meant that the length of the tube maintains the bearing separation which is what sets the preload? So the tube is passively maintaining the gap whilst allowing the nut to be torqued to stop it all coming undone. Is that what you said? I’m still worrying why the original...

Ok so I’m looking at it from the viewpoint of the original being correct, but you are right. If the original was very worn then there’d be a load of end float and a lack of pre-load, and the new crush being +1.5 could be correct. I wish I’d checked it beforehand. Hindsight hey :-)

I completely agree with you, and if the numbers had added up I’d have done just that. Having stripped it, I just don’t understand how come the new crush sleeve is longer than the old one by so much. Maybe I’m over thinking it.

My brain is telling me that with what I have now (+1.5mm), if the original spacer was back in it would be locked up solid. It doesn’t seem right.

Understood When I got the original preload set and then I inspected the crush sleeve, it had only shortened by 0.5mm, and still 1.5mm longer than the original. What I don’t get is how a 1.5mm difference could occur unless the original setting was really out. I guess that could be the case...

Ah but I’ve not replaced the bearings. :-) Only the crush sleeve, fling washer, oil seal, hub, washer and nut. Can you confirm that I’m correct in my assertion that the length of the crush sleeve effectively sets the preload by spacing the two bearings?

I’m really having a mare with this pinion. I assembled it all and tightened the nut up with the rattle gun until everything was seated, and then preceded to tighten up to crush the sleeve. I had calculated I’d need 1.3 turns from snug to crush the sleeve to the size of the original, so I went to...

Quite right. Attached are some photos. there does look to be a headrest fitting but only a single hole. The seat backs have a hard plastic cover. There’s a label in one frame but not sure if it will help. Cheers, Jim

Has anyone used the Britpart seat trim kit DA5630E on a VIN earlier than AA677964? This is the VIN they say they are good from. I’ve got a 1986 110 with a VIN before this and all Britpart will tell me is that it won’t fit. Has anyone tried, or know the problems/difficulties of making them...

No I’ve not started assembly yet. Last time, I used the old hub and a new leather seal. I think I may I’ve distorted the metal seal shell which then rubbed on the hub. I’ve now got the upgraded hub with a flange and the newer rubber seal so hopefully that’ll make the grinding a thing of the...

I couldn’t do anything else during that race!! Mind blowing. Slightly unpleasant taste to the end but well done to Max. So… yes it’s a Salisbury and I am not changing the bearings so will use the lower given torque settings (15-30ft/lbs). The manual does seem to suggest with the seal in place.

Can anyone see confirm this is the case?? It’s not what I had thought.

So I’m back home and have all the parts ready for fitting the diff pinion and preload. I have some thoughts about getting the initial setting - can someone confirm my logic? The original crush sleeve is almost exactly 2mm shorter than the uncrushed one, and the length of the sleeve is what is...

Ooooohhhh :-( I bet that seal won’t come out easily without destroying it.

So tonight I started to reassemble the diff pinion and it’s not going well. New crush sleeve, oil seal, oil thrower washer and seal gasket. Cleaned everything up and put the pinion in. As soon as the flange is down onto the oil seal the pinion is rubbing on something. I’ve not tightened it down...

Made up and fitted new brake pipes for the back end today. Quite therapeutic.

Well, I’m committed now I guess.

Don’t suppose anyone has an old gash pinion flange/hub from a salisbury axle I could have? I want to make a locking tool to do the nut up with. Don’t care about the splines, just meet the plate with the 4 holes to save me machining one. Possibly the output from the transfer would do as well...

I was looking this morning. The torque is only 3nm at the top end and most of those available say 3nm to 40 or something. I was hoping to find a smaller one but I guess beggars can’t be choosers.

So I’ve made a boo boo and taken the nut off the Salisbury pinion without marking it. I’m happy to fit a new crush sleeve but I don’t have a suitable dial torque indicator to accurately set the pre load. Can I machine a non crushing sleeve to the exact same length? Or where can I get a cheap low...