I’m having a right mare getting the two front bolts to line up with the chassis in the seat box. See photos. The holes are M8 but is that what was in there I wonder? I’ve got a sneaking suspicion they’re all M6. Can anyone confirm? This one went in with a wedge and a persuader. but this one is...

Would some kind person check where the top of the front wing stays bolt to on a 110 pickup. Mines an ‘86 if that’s important. Cheers Jim

Put the seat box back in today and got those pesky brackets sorted. She’s really coming along now. Just fitted the hand brake lever back in - where does the metal P-clip on the handbrake cable screw to though?

So just bolted through the seat box. Cheers.

Hey and thanks for the reply. It’s the rear of the sill rail that’s confusing me. Is there supposed to be a captive nut in the square hole or something? I don’t recall this being the case but hey… it’s a LR :-)

I think I’ve figured out the bracket (see second photo) and the sill rail just seems to be bolted through from the seat box, but it has a square hole making me think it maybe had a captive nut? There’s a couple of stays on the chassis rails heading towards the back of front of the tub (see first...

Hi all. Finally fitting the tub back on the chassis of the 110 but there’s a couple of fixings that I don’t have photos of. Can someone remind me of how the door sills attach to the front of the tub, and how the U shaped brackets go on the lower front of the tub. It’s a 1986 pickup 110. Cheers

You can get plastic channel with the felt insert? Do you have a link at all? Cheers.

Hi all. I’ve finally finished welding the doors - jeez it was painful on the drivers side. So now I need to get new 5mm glass felt channel all round. I see lots of different suppliers. Does anyone have any experience of different types? Cheers, Jim

Bit more door action. All the rubbish has been cut out now. Shame I changed my mind and the upright is in two bits but hey…

Bit more work on the rusty door. Just had to bite the bullet and change most of the upright too. Still got to work out a plan for that curvy bit but I managed to save one side of it to work off so that’ll help.

YRM do the bottom section which is the same as the uprights, but not where it curves at the mid line. They also do a section that runs across the midline of the door from side to side I think.

Ah gotcha.

Would you make one piece? I can’t decide wether to make up two side plates to fix to the base then add a top, or make one complete piece.

Fixed the lower door rail with a YRM part. Still lots to do though.

Hi all. Working on the rusty doors. I’ve done the bottom rail, but how do I go about tackling this curved pillar? Any pointers gratefully received. cheers Jim

You don’t think I should ‘fix’ it with a length of chequer plate? That seems to be the ‘authorised’ method. Or just give it a lick of paint.

Took a look at the doors today. Almost pristine I’d say.

Finished off the tub brackets and painted the NATO hitch red.

Well…. I hadn’t really thought about that. I suppose I will have to paint the roof at some point. I could do the rims then. I guess I wanted to get them done and in the vehicle. It seems I’m just getting a longer list of things that are 15’C dependent.