Just in case you missed it - here's the reasoning. Freel2.com - View topic - 2-stroke oil and diesel

I doubt it - I also go through a set every couple of months. :( Nice and bright with 20 LEDs - but the damn things start falling to bits - the base material starts to fail - possibly with the heat from the dipped beam bulb which is very close. Thank god they are also cheap as chips. ;)...

Mintex, Don, Textar and Pagid and several other perhaps less well-known brands are all part of the TMD Friction Group. Big factory in Leverkusen makes them all down the same production line as far as I know. The Pagid ones that are supplied as OE to M-Benz and BMW are on a separate line. They...

Yes a bit disappointing report there. It's only too easy to be fooled into thinking the oil level is low and pouring in unneccesary oil. Which is possibly what a previous owner may have done. It's best to check the level when the vehicle is cold, preferably having sat overnight. Even if...

The problem is the studs are NOT screwed into the handle body! :mad: You can't get them out - you can just see the end of the knurling. I assume the plastic is cast/moulded around them. A squirt of WD40 onto the knurled bit after treating the rust is the best advice I could give. As for...

EBC discs and pad - last 3 times as long as the LandRover OE type. Much less brake dust as well. :)

When my handle came off I was amazed at the amount of mud and rust behind it. Be sure to treat all the rust on or around the studs on the handle, and around the holes in the door. I applied plenty grease on them, and re-painted the door - but I was lucki I suppose in that all the corrosion...

The short answer is yes, but usually confined to behind the rear door handle. Water is trapped behind the handle and the resulting rust on the studs set into the plastic handle which pass through the door, is often enough to split the plastic, with the result that the handle eventually comes...

Good to read positive enthusiastic posts like this. Good on you mate. ps Hope it continues - you haven't actually got it yet. He he. lol :p

This thread started a year or so ago and I haven't the time to re-read all 270 odd posts, including my own. But for those who haven't seen an even older thread (blatantly pinched from another forum) I suggest you read this which for me was very re-assuring as I had heard all sorts of scary...

I agree - I've never had to clean anything so foul, black and sticky. Best to wear rubber gloves and have plenty of newspaper as the black sh*t doesn't come off clothes, carpets or from under fingernails. I used paraffin and then the Mr Muscle multi-surface detergent (the orange bottle)...

You need a 22" (550mm) for the drivers side. And a 21" (530mm) for the passenger side. The best blades are the Bosch Aero type. Not only are they smear free but they divert flies, crud and light drizzle up over the windscreen. And they last much longer. Bosch do a special set of 2 called...

No problem. ;)

You're right - China, Russia, and the US of A are truly the target markets now. No one in TATA is interested in a group of guys in the UK & Ireland having fun with, and keeping on the road, aging little trucks. :( Especially so since Cyrus Pallonji Mistry (that well known 'Irish'...

I think most folks just re-fit the manifold with the original gaskets. Buying an EGR by-pass will mean that the air-flow through it will have no obstruction. A de-activated EGR still has a fair bit of the cross-section occupied with the piston/valve gubbins. A small improvement perhaps...

You obviously haven't driven an auto recently. Mine certainly ain't slow. lol And it isn't that thirsty either. I was a late convert to autos - being put off by sluggardly boxes back in the 70's. Have a read up on the Steptronic system before you drive it. After a bit of trying to do...

Cleaning out the EGR of the gunk, and fitting a golf tee in the braid pipe to de-activate it is the cheapest and one of the most effective mods you can do. There are absolutely no negatives at all - it's a 'no-brainer' really. Clean air - instead of sooty exhaust fumes. Next stage is to...

As far as I'm led to believe the coolant flow through the heater matrix is open all the time - and the heater controls simply vary the air-flow through the matrix. I reckon it's completely impossible to bleed the system properly with only one go at it. As I said it took me a week before...

Got your PM. Yes - the correct bleed screw is shown in the top picture on the black heater hose. :) The other pic - with the Schraeder valve - is for the Air-Con - for God's sake don't open that one! :eek: SV :cool:

Buying a Disco would not be a wise move - for me - because as well as short local trips towing, I regularly do long solo motorway trips to the Balkans. Whilst I wouldn't be bothered by the fuel consumption of a Disco locally - it's much too thirsty for foreign trips. Even with the...