I run 225/70/15 on the st'd 5 spoke alloy rims. I think these are a close match to the factory original tyres in size at 195/80/15 but are about 10mm greater in rolling circumference. No they do not rub anything. They are Bridgestone Dueller A/T 697

You right. It's just the K&N Apollo filter with the original rubber connection from the A/F to the throttle, The silicone elbow goes down and then out through the engine bay wall to the CAF I made up some time ago. Yes that is 65mm PVC spouting down-pipe! It wouldn't be hard to add a snorkel to...

Poor cutting technique on my part lead to them being eccentric :oops:

Refitted the original rubber inlet hose - AF to throttle body - and fitted a silicone 90º bend into the AF. That aluminium flexi-pipe had a split and when I took it off it was starting to delaminate inside with small flakes of aluminium hanging down.

update - I heard back from the motor engineers who are looking at the head for me. As they were recutting the valve seats the found two which were not concentric :( So, what to do? Organise another head and start again but taking more care, Or organise replacement valve seats - they are not...

I've used 'house brand' seals, MG Rover, Corteco, Allmakes... and I've not noticed that that pre treatment. I put a smear of clean engine oil on the seals 'lip' to help them slip into position. Would that have any negative effect or shorten their life span or reduce their sealing effectiveness?

I find it interesting when I price parts from three different suppliers and then compare their freight charges. LRD has be quite competitive with parts prices and reasonable with freight costs. One of the others is often 1/3 to 1/2 as dear again for the freight - same items ...

Yes cam seal/s are your best bet. I've one that's leaking and it makes a real mess, the oil eventually creeps around both sides of the block. Do you re-use the cam cover seal or toss it away and fit a new one? I'm going to reuse mine but give it a clean and apply the Wurth sealant to both sides...

Over the past winter I've been both frustrated and puzzled by the poor heat output from the FL1s heater. Temp' hasn't been great and the demist function has been similar. So today I decided to investigate. I had given the heat and ventilation controls a right shake up about a year ago when I...

I thought it and interesting article and was equally interested in what other's thoughts were about it. It seems too pertain to petrol engines as it doesn't specify which fuel it is. That oily mess in the induction 'plumbing' is the residue from the PCV 'flow' moving into the combustion chamber...

Opps :oops:

It's something I've done in the past on a diesel but today I stumbled across this on-line article about EGR removal. Food for thought for peeps considering this. Your thoughts about this? see here

I took my pair of LR driving lamps off and replaced it with a 22" LED bar. It fitted neatly to the nudge bar and I used the existing wiring - works well with a great light spread but not much increase in range. As mine's a '98 model the switch is down below the mirror adjustor. Can't think of...

Has anyone refurbished / recovered their own hood lining? How much fabric do I need and what type of adhesive - I've heard that a 'hi' temp' one is needed. Any tips, ticks.. advice welcome!

Thanks - I was thinking it probably wouldn't matter save for matching the correct position.

That small spindle that is fitted to the end of the inlet cam to turn the distributor is set in a rubber-like compound. It can be removed by giving it a good wiggle in a vice. So why is it mounted in that rubber compound? I'm looking at using a VVC exhaust cam as an inlet cam and I need to fit...

That rear end knock... It may be nothing, it could be that centre diff mount worn - not expensive or difficult to sort, or it could be the right hand side sub frame forward mounting point cracked - again not a biggy to sort... If possible have another look at the coolant bottle. They commonly...

As what Grumpy said above. I've ordered recently and parts from LRDirect were quick to get here. Rimmers a very good too but their freight prices are currently quite high. Expect delays in shipping at the present time. Wouldn't it be easier if you got the bits sent directly to you?

Oil seal Diff unit to driveshaft = TRX100060LP1 = OEM Available at Rimmers... My LH one wept, even after I changed it. I think the actual drive shaft was slightly worn where that oil seal sat so I eventually replaced the driveshaft too, and that seal again just to make sure. No more oil weep.

As rob_bell has said the 1.8 petrol is not a difficult motor to work on and well within the DIY ability. They have slightly better performance that the L series diesel but then the L series is a better tow car. I'm well into motor DIY with mine and am exploring some interesting head/motor mods...