My 2000 P38 4.0 has one original key that works perfect. It looks like it's been through a war zone however. I fear for its future. My spare key I think is a copy based on a disco key (not the flippy type) but it doesn't have any buttons so you can use it to open the car using the blade, but if...

Long shot but does anyone have a Nanocom P38 Motronic Thor V8 they don't mind parting with? I'm in the south east, Purley.

I've emailed their complaints department to ask for the figures. It was the only email address I could find. We'll see if I get a response.

May I hijack this thread as I may have a problem with a similar solution. My gear selector doesn't require the brake to be used to shift out of park. I assume this means the catch is broken. Also, when shifting it's fairly stiff, and doesn't have any feedback that it's in a certain position...

I think you have this wrong. There are plenty of cars which were EURO 3 compliant that just happen to have NOx levels that also comply with EURO4. See this article which lists such examples (no P38 however)...

Based on the TFL checker it's not compliant but this is only checking what euro standard it met when it was made, not based on actual emission data that Land Rover must have gathered.

I've got a 2000 4.0 P38 and live about 1 mile withing the new ULEZ boundary 2023. I really don't want to sell this car but I also can't justify £12.50+ every time I drive it. I've read that a few cars built after the year 2000 just happen to be Euro 4 compliant. My P38 would have been Euro 2 or...

Strange you're getting this fault with a new pressure switch fitted. The pressure switch measures for pressure being two low and too high (1 and 2). Sounds like the too high one is working fine, but it always thinks it has too little pressure. Are you finding then that the pump kicks in after...

Ok, so swapped it this morning (dead easy with an oil filter chain) and I have mixed results. When not using the brakes and the ignition on, after initial pressurisation I didn't hear the pump click on in a 10 minute period. Then got bored of waiting. Before it clicked on every 4 minutes so...

Is it worth clamping the the hose from the reservoir or does fluid not run through after removing the accumulator?

I actually didn't know as I don't notice it when driving, so just stood checked with just the ignition on, and yes. Every 4 minutes maybe it runs for less than a second. Not timed. So I'm guessing there's a leak somewhere. My new accumulator arrived today. Do we reckon it's still worth swapping...

I've got a 4.0 P38 2000. I happen to have a 25L barrel of 5W-30 fully synthetic which I bought for a 2009 Jaguar 3.0D that I'm now getting rid of, but would like to use the oil if I can Two things concern me about this oil. 1. I have a slight weep from the rear main seal so will I regret...

I'm thinking beach holiday for the family. Oh look, there happens to be a parts seller how, what are the chances?

At £152 and free postage they do seem to be the cheapest available. Will probably go down this route thanks.

Apparently they pressure test them and refill the ones that pass the test, then run them through 100 duty cycles to check they are ok. Whether 101 cycles would go pop is anyone's guess. I don't know if they typically fail due to simply loosing gas or failing diaphragm. If the former a recon...

Apparently Saab's too, but searches for them lead to forums advising owners to buy P48 units as they are much cheaper. Doh! Jag units seem to be a similar price. New or recon appears to be what it now boils down to.

Ok thanks. It looks like it might be the original based on condition. Looks like the previous owner was trying to solve something as the pressure monitor switch looks brand new. I've noticed that they seem to be £180 new so inflation has clearly hit. Or £85 on an exchange basis on eBay? Worth...

Hi, my 2000 4.0 has weird brakes. Going from completely empty to fully pressurised take about 20s which sounds good to me. So I'm guessing the motor is good. But, every time I press the brakes the motor runs for about 3 seconds. Is this normal? Then, with the ignition off I get almost no...

I'm looking for somewhere that commonly breaks P38's so I have a reliable and local source for parts. But I can't seem to find any near where I live (Purley, Croydon, South London). I find these types of places are typically only known by word of mouth so hoping someone knows of somewhere near...

As said above, the codes are your starting point, but I would be more inclined to think it's something to do with fuel pressure or injectors. It should still start with bad Turbos or split turbo hoses, and I doubt it would be intermittent. It would just be down on power. I would start by...