Old bulkhead was removed & the arch for clutch diaphragm on bulkhead cut of for fitting to replacement TD-5 version. And under Left side wing the frame needs welding need pulling out of wooden shed. Hopefully this will be finished this week & frame can be welded. Friend does good metal work...

The door seals I have are sides & top, bottom seal should be on sill I thought? I will see if that edge is riveted on?

Door sills the lower galvanized is britpart, does not include the outside sealing lip on original. Is that lip riveted onto the sill or are they welded. Either way not included with the Britpart version.

This shows corrosion water intrusion eats metal. A Metal friend is going to remove the arch above the clutch housing with attachment points for diaphragm in front of transmission cover. To be installed on replacement TD-5 bulkhead.

I did look for that on Ashcroft did not find it? Also checked the fiche there is a seal & mud shield there. Thnx

Is the transfer case rear seal transmission brake same as front seal? Seems I needed to fit a sleeve on the front transfer case output flange to stop the leak a few years back. It is a 22 DC can you tell ratio’s from other numbers or where would I look? This flange, (spare in shed)

I have purchased a full set of fuel lines & the one odd spot is what you are referring to. When I get frame painted I am assuming I will have same question.

Everything already removed slave still in place as is old bulkhead, will have to wait until replacement of bulkhead.

Thnx this set up has been run around the lot but that is all. Replacing bulkhead as door sills were welded to original. Replacement bulkhead is a TD5. Torque meaning clutch not fully releasing I am assuming.

56A0144575 F I thought it was a lt77 came out of a 110 5door, I had it rebuilt. Installed with likely original clutch master, all removed to remove bulkhead. When reinstalled have a rebuilt unit from other truck. So maybe hew parts better adjustment. New England cold rainy spring waiting for...

Thnx I was thinking I needed to remove the shifter mechanism from transfer box as you said. Then I was wondering about wheels propshafts, undo propshafts probably best way to go as you said. The shifter arms are simple but will see. It does move just not much.

Should you need to turn the prop wheels to engage the H/L diff lock? When all this was installed just trying to get installed & trucked home back in shed. So I will try to verify the levers this week. There was a series clutch on this truck I removed remember the clutch carrier was not fully...

1984 110 PU when I got it had a defender 200 tdi determined head was shot still cannot remove the injectors? Lack of Maintenance one of the cylinders was leaking water. Transmission was a Sub D transfer was 12D004836A Replaced engine with a disco 200 tdi transmission sub E or F transfer...

I had the injector bodies loosen up & leak on the 2.5 just check the injector bodies with a wrench ascertain they are tight.

Hot water & a brush

I am in the the New England, shipping required.

After cutting off the inside of seal the frame just dropped out of frame. I thought the Xmod frames had an internal interference strip in the frame, did not have a photo. Eventually when I get around to painting the frame.

That I believe is the adjustment on the master. Also depends on who made master how easy to adjust. Nuts on each side forget which way, likely make it longer delays engagement.

I have that tool likely last year Replaced glass gasket on sunroom large pieces of glass rubber gasket with expanding strip, like the rear windows on truck almost. Tool was semi hard plastic. I likely will get the LandRover gasket. All of which needs to wait for warm weather.

Probably my mistake was trying to push out from inside I am assuming. The frame will be repainted when warm weather arrives eventually. & assuming glass new seal wold be installed from inside, will be warm after this is painted.