@Mark Piercy found some cheaper ones in Europe.

No. Straight connector onto pipe a nd then barb connector with compression fitting the other side. Then the reverse to get on the other metal pipe. I'll post links when I get near a PC.

They used to do nice thick ones to take up the gap. Ordered some parts from China on eBay. Hopefully won't be long arriving.

No. I went to the local hydraulic place but he seemed to think Land Rover were an odd size. My main problem, apart from the cost of the Land Rover part, is that the pipes are more than likely welded to the cooler. Hence the plan to just cut the steel pipe and use a compression fitting to join...

There are 2 contacts in the brake switch. Sometimes one comes loose and that's when both switches show as on all the time.

Pretty sure I just popped my clock out using feeler guages or maybe accessed via the stereo slot. It was a long tine ago though.

I used an Ezibleed kit with the spare wheel when I changed the modulator. I ended up pushing 3 litres of brake fluid through its bleed nipple before bubbles stopped coming out. After that I just bled as per RAVE.

That's weird. Just checked Screwfix for the link and they don't seem to sell them anymore! They're not 15mm but whatever the imperial measurement is which is ever so slightly different. Best make what I've got last. I've got a lathe so in theory I could skim a bit out to make it fit. Good to...

The great thing about the v8 is that a quick burst down the road and you're down below the filler neck. Any spilled evaporates nicely too. I had a hell of job getting all the diesel out of mine.

Ratchet ring spanner perhaps? Sometimes helps to press down where the hinge is after removing the nut to take the tension off the wiper and allow it to wiggle off the spindle.

If anyone is on here looking for the source of odd vibrations then this sounds like an easy place to start: 1) are propshafts slightly out of phase? 2) is the nub in the missing tooth or have they reassembled in the wrong place? Reminds me, I haven't greased mine in ages.

I think I might need @brianp38dse or @gstuart for their opinion here! 5/8" is nearly but not quite 15 mm? My house is all imperial pipework and I know damn well that 15 or 22 mm olives leak every time but you can get olives from Screwfix that fit imperial and take up the slack. If I were to...

FFS. Still got the old one?

Straight edge and feeler gauges should be enough. Make sure surfaces are clean using plastic edge or something softer than the metal so it doesn't scratch the surface. Clean with soft rag and solvent like diesel or petrol.

I thought he had a refurbed FIP on it?

My oil cooler pipes are leaking really badly now. Thinking of fitting a compression fitting and then just standard rubber pipe connected with a barbed fitting. Oil cooler pipe is the worst and has an outer diameter of 5/8". Only connectors I can find are £40 each and I need 4 of them...

I seem to recall a lot of the values were nowhere near what the Nanocom documentation said they should be but it didn't matter. I had some traces saved but they're all xlsb and I cannot open them on this computer. I'll try and find what mine were.

I'm not sure I'd worry too much about either if those. Fuel temperature seems odd though.

Bah. Aftermarket rubbish!

Bottom of both those gaskets look pretty bad to me.