...is it that the holes are touching the fold on the non OEM ones and there's a bit of a web between the holes and the bend on the OEM?

I'm not the most observant (my partner does the quality control on my work as I just don't see things) but, to me, I can't see what you're seeing between the two photos. Can you point out "wheres wally" to me?

The nicest option would be one of the vdo ones with an electronic sender, like the 300 disco. No more jumpy needle either. They're about £170 though. Maybe even more. But, to answer your question, there's certainly a website somewhere with photos of all the drives and descriptions. I just...

Exactly. The chap has confirmed its cranking. The only relay in the (electrical) area has been confirmed working. I edited the post to be clear that I didn't know if the alarm section somehow fed back to the immobilizer section, but, irrespective of that, a wire to the stop solenoid is the...

Note the alarm / immobilizer on the 300 was so rubbish that, iirc, landrover even gave a part number to the bypass loom. Years ago I had a disco with a 300 that would occasionally fail to start (in this case it was the starter as well as the fuel solenoid, but I guess they can fail in different...

Have a look at the attached screen grab - You're looking at the middle section (it's just a grab from my phone and I can't be bothered to crop it) There's the "ECU engine immobilizer" section on the right hand side. This was probably removed years ago as they were rubbish and would stop no...

Did you just say - Am I reading this wrong? You say it starts with the relay removed? Surely that tells you something? Basically, stop messing about with the relay and run a wire direct to the stop solenoid (also referred to as the fuel solenoid). I know you're convinced it's the relay...

A non EDC 300tdi needs electricity to a grand total of "2" things to start - The starter motor (which you have confirmed is running) and The fuel solenoid on the injection pump. Yours may be an EDC - I don't know. I've made the assumption that it's not, possibly incorrectly. If it isn't an...

They can also do a real frustrating thing where they do open, but then, if there's other stuff going on, they can close again when it's cranking.... And then open again when you stop cranking.

Have someone sit in the car, and turn the key - not to cranking, but just before. Whilst they do this, put your ear close to the injection pump. Do you hear a click from the back of the injection pump as they turn the key? If the engine cranks, it's a fuel or air issue (or lack of...

I'm casually looking for a set, and I'm relaxed enough on time scales that I may as well get genuine. What are the indicators as to "authenticity" when I'm browsing face book market place in the middle of the night? I'm in no rush and am happy to chuck some sand / not sand in my clemco, so...

It's funny how their rep went that way. Were they ever good or was it just a copy of the "lanoguard" advertising campaign?

I have had a bit of a go. Plenty of mentions but not a lot of (or any, but I'm sure someone will now search better than me and make me look a fool!) of people actually saying "I run like this and it's fine"

It's not so much how to do it, but more if it's a good idea...

I dont have the direct link to hand but Ashcroft certainly mention removing the half shafts oil seal if you're fitting flanges with screw on caps. I assume someone here has done just that? Any feedback on the results? The reason I ask is that I went to replace the half shafts today and one...

I wont pretend im a buyer, but ive tried to google the top bit, and not found anything - do you have a link for that bit? The bit on the roof...

They really are not anything special. If your local hardware place sells overpriced alloy extrusion they may even have some you can attach. Painted in to the same colour as the roof and noone would ever spot them even if they were looking.

this is a 2nd row door - Starts just after the b post. I can see no fasteners other than the odd pressed indents - The strip, unlike at the b post, goes under the c post edge - If you bent up some strip and pop riveted it on, there would be no conflicts, so far as i can see.

Its dark now, but, if you let me know exactly what you want to see, ill point the camera at it some time tomorrow.

...are they the old b posts under it? Did the old / original ones have the rivet on door seals?