Mine has the original gearbox, mounted to the new engine, using a zeus custom bellhousing (this was 20 years or so ago) I think M&D still sell an adapter plate, but im not sure. The gear stick on mine is raised (as in the gear stick that the operator handles), with its ball joint mounted on a...

I rarely drive mine, but I think I calculated 22mpg on our trip to France years ago. International engines HS2.8 with variable vane turbo. Ironically, my fuel is near free, so the consideration then becomes carrying capacity more than mpg. (I am in the process of making up a replacement fuel...

Just use your eyes - they will break as soon as you look at them, so why bother getting a special tool?

I removed one side on my partners fl2 a couple of years ago to weld up the back of the sill. It wasn't put back on.

No thin sheet is ever dipped (so far as I know) as the distortion would be crazy. I got my bulkhead dipped and that's thicket than door skins and still bends a bit. A door skin would be crazy. There was a company a while back that was talking about dipping the pressed puma style rear door...

I'm going to get a new back door. I will be buying the box section hot dipped one, with an alloy skin. I don't rate the electroplated steel stuff really.

Id like to see a web page with all those examples. I suspect I could spend an age on Google and get the same.... ....which is why I'd like to see them all in one place!

I intend to fit some, as its painful trying to get large stuff on the roof rack without climbing all over the wings. I probably wont bother with the bonnet, just the wings. (my current wings are so dished on the top that they collect water when parked)

Ive had someone else tell me similar once (might even have been you for all i can remember! : ) I find that the pipe kinks off to the side if i try. I wanted to do my 300 leak off pipes. Got one section, kind of, just over and then gave up.

Is that the Salisbury that was only fitted to 110s and 130s and never to the 90? I'm not saying they are not Salisbury. Just if they are, they are not original to your vehical.

The pipe doesnt have much stretch in it at all. You can get it in boiling water for a bit of expansion, but, really, not much. Id suggest buying your fittings and measuring them, and then buying pipe to match. I mean 1/2 mm less or whatever, but don't think "I'll get it 2mm too small and...

I did our 101 with clear (makes it simple to see air leaks) nylon pneumatic pipe, with brass inserts and compression fittings.

You dont take the floor out at all. You take of the little triangular panels by the c posts, and slide in the new one from the side. Edit : confused as you say this in your own post (?) The old one doesn't come out that way - you chop that up in situ and scrap it. You slide in the modified...

I have a full size trolley jack strapped down on mine. Which is stupid. But it does work.

Socket set, breaker bar, rubber mallet (wheels have a habit of sticking to the hubs), and jack. Normally a flat head screwdriver, but it's not there currently, and a spare fuel filter.

Did you buy it?

I'll take some photos later for you. Again mine has no trim so should be able to show you stuff.

I changed the front hubs on my 300. I can't remember what I bought - probably just the cheapest - all they are is a big lump of steel.

So long as it spins without conflict, I can't see an issue. We are talking the ones that hold the locking / adjustment plate on the front, right? Iirc on the 300 the edge of the flange runs very close to the edge of the hole in the timing case cover.

As an example, these on eBay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186764798337 The gap between the holes and the ridge is there and I can't see a significant ridge around the bead. Would these be original and tubeless? (I'm not buying them - I'm just using them as an example)