Not sure about the lock on the door but try this for the rear window; 1. Disconnect Negative cable from battery 2. Disconnect Positive Cable from battery 3. touch the cables together and hold for 15-20 seconds 4. Put the positive cable back on 5. Put the negative cable back on 6. Window will go...

Yes. It will be fused with the force of a thousand stars :D never had to do a bearing though always replaced it with the hub so I can't provide any advice unfortunately :(

Can confirm when I undid mine with a 2 ft breaker bar plus 6ft of trolley jack handle the crack echoed for centuries doing it a second time will not happen...

I had to do the front wheel hub on my FL1 and did not have the tools, the hub nut is tightened to 400NM from the factory which is ridiculous and you need to replace it after removing it, however with my lack of tools I managed to get a gear puller from my local toolstation (UK if you are in US)...

Not having a FL 2 but this sounds like an ABS / wheel sensor fault as all of the errors would be linked to the wheels, could try replacing the ABS sensor probably started to get all sorts of confused. Had a similar driving experience on a BMW 1 Series when the wheel speed sensor went on that.

So... The weekend has been busy got a few people together and managed to replace the gearbox in a day, lots of stress and hard to reach bolts but it's back in and I can confirm that the front drive now works, the splines on the gearbox had sheared off. To remove the gearbox though I had to cut...

Honestly, sometimes the latch release actuator gets stuck in the down position so when closing the door and pressing the handle the actuator does not move, I sometimes have to kick the s*** out of my rear boot then try the handle and it will open haha :)

Hey man, I have a TD4 starter laying around if the corrosion is not causing the issue, let me know!

Hey! Can't say I had the same issue, mine would not go down on my FL1, so I guess much better, however in the summer not fun, in short I discovered the plastic part that had the cable for the motor to pull had water and corroded the plastic over a long time so I needed to replace the whole...

I took the clock spring from it, super easy to change, wrench and screwdriver will set you up, may need to re-use your clock spring though.

Hey, you'll have to let me know, however I can clean one one, it has volume control if you are at all interested, in the beige colour. Does that work?

You can always get a spray bottle with water, spray down all the turbo lines where they are clamped, start the car and check for bubbles ;)

yeah I thought so but mine says 8V on the engine but also says TD4 on the back (Door) You know what, I will take it out the diesel and let you all know how it goes :)

Hey so I have a Petrol 1.8 and a Diesel 2.0 TD4 (Parts car) I may need to replace the Gearbox (another thread in question) but I am of the understanding that the gearbox from the TD4 does not fit the 1.8 Petrol. However... This suggests that the 1.8 petrol and 2.0 Diesel are the same as long...

Though the more I look around and at the below picture: The more I think it is stripped as the splines where the IRD would go (The smaller set of splines) it is smooth but with little bit of spline at the end. this picture illustrates this Red being the beginning of the splines, blue being...

Here are some more pictures of the removed IRD and CV While a little blurry the splines inside the gearbox are all okay: Not sure if it is how it is meant to look but the middle set of splines only have spline at the bottom of that part but the CV still splines in and rotates nicely. All...

Yeah I did not think I could swap the gearboxes :( Either way, the CV seemed fine, I checked both sides to make sure, all splines are good none are sheared I am not sure where the issue lays, when I get home from work I will upload some images and videos of the issues may clear up some...

So... Wasn't this fun. I spent this weekend, getting dripped on by oil, coolant and dirt, but I guess I do this because I enjoy it, however I took the IRD out, took the diff cover off it and it was fine???? All the gears are good, it actually looks, really really good, oil was super clear, no...

Chisel and a hammer ought to get that tab out the way right?

That actually makes a lot of sense, will ensure I crack it with the car down and then do the rest of it off the floor Gonna get a 2ft Breaker bar and attached my jack stand pole to it for about 4-5 ft of breaker bar, should be plenty to get this nut off.