This. As long as you are replacing the ball joint these take 'em out in mere seconds. Hammer it in. Hammer it down. Done.

Hey Yes it is, it goes on the clutch fork with some moly grease on the contact points, once the gearbox is out it takes about 5 mins to replace assuming this is a manual gearbox of course. Check the gearbox splines for play (up and down, side to side) if it wobbles, welcome to new gearbox town 😂

If you're removing the driveshafts I'd replace the c clips on those but you're right the ird main seal needs to be done and personally while you're there is do the throwout bearing and clutch fork they don't fail often but they are cheap to replace so might as well while you are there.

Hey! You'll be glad to know I got a clutch anyway 😂 managed to get a kit on clearance for £75 which is bearable so that should work. Thanks! Will use the crank pulley I got as a spare I am under the impression they rust out quite often? or at least that is what DMGRS tell me? Edit: I believe...

Problem is I don't have an impact strong enough to get it off out of the engine and those cost £200 upwards or about £60 to rent one which I don't even get to keep it. Just with the tools I have at the moment it makes the most sense

I have ordered some more parts for the engine they aren't in the picture but new spark plugs have already arrived, is there anything else I can should renew while I am there? I would do the clutch but with everything I don't have another £100 for the kit from DMGRS But ultimately I don't want...

Hey I think it can but the part the rotor arm sits on I believe is press fit in so it would be a right pain to get out of the current cam especially now its out of the carrier

Really working up a sweat today in this very hot room, decided that the cylinder head and tools would come with me to the computer today to remove the old exhaust camshaft from my broken engine as the brand new second hand one is a post 2001 model so needs to be converted from the wasted spark...

Air Fuel Spark Timing The 4 things any engine NEEDS to function outside of silly electronics I would recommend testing each part you can test air by putting your throttle to the floor when starting the engine and you can test fuel by spraying some form of combustible fluid into the air intake...

Pretty sure having done what I have on this car, I think mechanically wise I have touched every bolt other than silly ones like at the back of the dash, done full brakes > Rear diff and diff mounts > engine mounts > Gearbox > Propshaft like 6 times > Drive shafts > front sub frame > lift kit >...

Hey all. This is becoming a big post and it is only starting 😂 Tonight I got the engine out, the engine crane has not arrived but we do it anyway until we putting the other engine in but came out nice and smooth with no major hiccups may need to re-wire the alternator plug (Not the thick...

Hey. I would strongly recommend reading here about testing the Propshaft with the One Wheel up Test (OWUT) https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-1-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/ However for your other questions the bearings are meant to be smooth and free, if they...

Hey! Not sure on the actual issue but the early model has no cam sensor the crank sensor is on the back of the engine (intake side) tucked away, really hard to find when the engine is in.

It's all good anyway, getting an engine soon and will hopefully have 'er up and running soon, will be updating here!

My suggestion would be looking at what is attached close to the pulleys. Sometimes a water pump pulley will have coolant lines on the other side of the block but not always the case, similar things go for the power steering, I don't have a F2 but from experience with the cars I do have you can...

Hey! I did take a look at what they were offering as my brother actually works there as a manager, but they got rid of 'em recently only Landy's they have at the moment are: Along with parts looking like this: Appreciate the thought though!

No problems, Would still be good to see how it actually works, if you have the time on hand!

That would be brilliant! already emailed them saying it is not fit for purpose, but would be good to see how it actually works especially if you have any pre-2001 Freelander's as I believe that is the same MEMS1.9 ECU that I've got in mine...?

Appreciate it! I have been looking over their website and it seems I should have an old laptop only had my Icarsoft a few months, hoping I can return it but we shall see! the Pscan looks promising! Thank you!

Speaking on this, I bought an Icarsoft V2 which I was told at the time would read the OBD on the Freelander 1 I have, but it did not and actually performs really poorly in my opinion, can't really do anything not even with my 2013 Nissan Is the PScan any good? What can it do? I think from what...