No matter which anti corrosion system you use none are a do once thing, depending on the use of vehicle, where you live it is a repeat job. I live by the sea and mine is a working farm truck, gets a good underside wash/dry then respray with engine oil and diesel mix every year.

Having re watched steamwally's video he does say it took him half an hour.[but he forgot to film it] I do now recall bit of a faff with the reverse idler in the way[ reason my box was appart was its replacement.

Now there's one, it was last autumn and I just can not remember. Sorry.

So did mine, hard to think what your issue could be.

You may well have an "Agri spares" place near you, they will have a selection of struts used to lift open tractor windows and other access panels.

And as @marjon says do not use those blue "scotch block" connectors. There are other similar products today that work the same way today by squeezing the wire between two thin metal bits while splitting the sheath, contact area is very small and while they work to start with it only takes a bit...

The clutch fork is an item that went downhill when the coilers arrived, Series 3 had a cast item with a nylon bearing for the post. So called heavy duty [ extra bit of metal welded on the back of arm] available. Problem I have had with a replacement is loss of one of the pins for the swivel...

There is no sliding any thing in. Head off, clean the surfaces of block and head, composite gasket. Follow correct torque down method. Head can be remove with manifolds on but more weight. Plumbers blow lamp is a good small heat source. Some good videos on the you tube

Sometimes looking at an issue the next day provides the answer. :D :D

Just to confirm @Hicap phill above the interior/ dash light switch as standard gives dash lights one way and interior light the other way with both off in the middle.

Could be the clutch flexi pipe has delaminated inside, result black fluid and possible blockage. Remove pipe from slave and see if fluid will flow from master.

My 1990 Ninety has both Permanent live wire and a switched one available for the lighter socket. I think how which was connected depended on the country vehicle was sold in.

As Adam Savage on MythBusters would say" Thars your problem" What about finding a scrapped even dumped trailer with a braked axle to fit to yours?

What is a matter with the trailer brakes? In good order the trailer brakes will be coming on with only a normal light touch on the towing vehicles brakes. And the more weight there is in the trailer the harder its brakes should come on. Or is it a case your log buss just does not have any?

Have a look at "Steam Wally" series 3 gearbox overhaul video's on the You tube. Helped a lot when I did mine last year. There are 3 parts. May help.

Also never had or heard of a series prop coming apart, even when a UJ fails they keep working safely [ making a din to let you know there is an issue to sort.]

Another Yes from me.

YES.

In the class of "hen's teeth" I recon.

Dashboard lights were my crock, went back to standard.