If my old EAS pump was blowing through 40A fuses and stinks like burnt circuit board there's no point me buying a gasket replacement kit is there? :faint2: Can I get it refurbished to keep as a spare :) or is it bin fodder :( ?

Okay I found the fault... I had a cluster of errors last week including ABS FAULT, TRACTION FAILURE, GEARBOX FAULT plus problems with the EAS, total failure to start etc. They turned out just to be low battery (Nanocom showed 8.75 volts at the pump) but while diagnosing them I was pulling...

Can't find that "How to"... could someone post a link, please? I spent a good hour searching before posting this request... cheers! PS As you said Emmotts have a tested switch for £125 which I'm ordering immediately after this.

Cheers, I'll drop them an email now.

Maybe I should give it a go then... I guess I'll know straight away if I've done it right or not because the pedal will firm up and the message will clear. Does clamping damage the tubes if you get it wrong?

Bugger. Best I get it towed to a garage then. I've done washer pumps and the EAS pump myself but brakes are a bit hairy for someone with no proper qualifications or experience. :(

I got ABS FAULT on the dash display, plugged in the Nanocom and found this message. If I clear it, it comes back again. Brake pedal is soft even pumping it with the engine running. Battery is 100% as I charged it last night. 2000 on a W

My Nanocom Evolution says the following: NANOCOM - WABD.APP - WABCO ABS D type faults file 11-01 NO POWER AT PUMP MOTOR RELAY 011 TIMES --- I've checked all the engine compartment fuses including the Maxis with a continuity tester (both legs of each fuse in situ). All OK. I...

I've also learnt a valuable lesson about not driving my own thread off topic with an ill advised PS... :D

Thanks everybody. I've found what I want now. :D

The relays in the engine bay fusebox are helpfully colour coded Yellow and Green. It's also obvious the Yellow are four pin and the green are five pin. However, closer inspection (and shopping for replacements) you get bombarded with various conflicting numbers. There's the AMR prefixed...

Beware the set I mention didn't work- my locking nuts fell between the 21.5 and 26 so I got a different set with 23mm and 24.5mm included. Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

I've just used a reverse thread socket similar to that mentioned above to remove a locking wheel nut for which I'd lost the key... how the f**k do I get the locking nut out of the reverse thread socket so I can do the others? I've tried various pipe wrenches but the nut is so hard none of them...

23mm... I found Laser 3464 Emergency Wheel Nut Remover 4pc covering. Sizes: 17 | 18.5 | 21.5 and 26mm x 38mm long Should do the trick... handy for rusted or rounded off nuts in the future... Cheers for the help...

Cheers for that... am I right that although the nuts are 27mm the reverse spiral tool for the lock nuts is 26mm? I can't seem to find anything bigger...

I have the same problem... can't see any letter though (photo attached).

I'm trying to fix my multi-changer using information I found on here to unplug and re-plug the multi-connector but I can't figure out how it comes undone. I've looked for levers to squeeze, buttons to press etc. and can't find any. There appeared to be a screw head on the top but my jewellers...

Thanks for this. My battery went flat without warning, recharging worked for two days and it went again. I read this thread before connecting a new one and listened for a clicking noise. Lo and behold I heard one from the RHS of the car, looked and saw a headlamp wiper at a jaunty angle...

I've been trying to get an answer to this but can't seem to find a definitive solution as most of the threads just cut off without a result. I thought I'd assemble all the symptoms and solutions into a single Post to act as a sort of mini-knowledge base. The basic symptom is a TRACTION FAILURE...

Oh my sides... :D