You don't have a wiring diagram?

You'll have to identify if you have a 2 wire, 3 wire or 4 wire alternator. If you have the 3 or 4 wire then the alternator will detect that the battery is full and you won't necessarily see a 14v charge being sent to the battery while running. If you have a 2 wire then there is no Sensor...

Difficult to say, which probably explains the lack of responses you're getting. If you put the seals in wrong then it could be user error? Did you bleed it? It might be best have a mechanic check and/or install the pump and see if the problem still presents itself.

Electrical tape be the work of the devil! https://tinyurl.com/ybkp9kwf

@lynall This it? https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Spring-Height-Measurments.pdf

Who the hell is putting your rivets in. In 30 odd years I've never seen a rivet rattle loose.

Like Tottot said, remove the covers off the rear load area so you have access to the wiring. Get yourself some contact cleaner. Check all the black wires are in good shape and not broken or frayed. Disconnect them one by one and clean them thoroughly with contact cleaner. Go crazy. See where...

99/100 it's a bad Earth, My rear lights all share a common earth, one on each side. So if several are flickering that's where I'd start.

You only use your horn for a half second once in a blue moon. Is a relay really necessary? My horn failed so I just hooked up a High/Low from a BMW to the existing wiring.

Come on matey, it's common sense is to remove the belt to clean the pulleys, I shouldn't have to draw a picture for the obvious. Note: I'm dissenting on Dayco, I think they're prone to squeak more than most. Just my 2 cents. I prefer Gates or skf where possible,

Um, why not?

Clean the pulleys with brake cleaner.

15w40 is fine. Doesn't matter what oil you used there's always a knowall handy to say you're doing it wrong. Did you change it at 100 miles and again at 500 miles. They're not solid rules for breaking in, but pretty good practice, certainly the 500 miles change. That's some pretty deep...

Mines riveted. I can't say that rattling has ever been an issue. The problem with bolts is they're steel. Rivets are aluminium.

Prep looks ****. And they were trigger happy with the gun, but that doesn't mean a whole lot, they rust from the inside out anyway. If in doubt, move on. Plenty of others to choose from.

Sounds like a lose injector/blown seal. The seal doesn't seal so you get sharp release of air pressure which sounds like a ticking. The injector may not feel lose when trying to wriggle it.

I just removed the reverse light and it was M5. Rusted to all hell, so had to use a drill.

I'll let you know, but it's supposed to be better for general driving on all terrains, and towing. To be fair, the 1.4 is the standard box on a 90/Defender (ignoring the 1.6 on some). Suffice to say I now know why Land Rover didn't fit the 1.2 to Defenders. It's weak (not structurally, just weak...

Mine is a short bellhousing. Isuzu engine to a R380 Short to a 1.2 Transfer box, which is terrible in Wales. Changing it to a 1.4 on Saturday, thank christ. If the last owner was trying to make it undriveable on anything but a flat surface, he succeeded admirably.

I've got the R380 Short fitted. Original seatbox and LT77 tunnel. Not sure about props as I didn't fit it.