Piccies attached.

Thanks for that Mark. The yellow one. If I can't get the right plug I will have to try and remove the terminals from the plug housing and see if I can replace them rather than the whole plug. Really it is no big deal but just one of those things that is both irritating and frustrating.

Thanks for the thought but unfortunately NO. The cap is fine, I need the plug to connect the 3 wires to the terminals on the cap if that makes sense? If it comes to it I suppose I will need to find a breaker and cut the wiring plug off or maybe remove the harness complete. Hey ho! I guess this...

This is one of those silly questions but does anybody know what type of plug is attached to the cap on the brake fluid reservoir - it's a 3 way plug/connector and do you think I can identify it!! It doesn't really look like a Junior Power Housing, can't see anything to match in TE connectors or...

Listen to the guys, they're not wrong. Heads off and gasket swap, bit of cleaning for inlet and throttle body etc, check a few hoses and cables no big deal really. If you have a reasonable tool kit and all the gaskets etc it is perfectly possible to do it in a weekend. I have done a head gasket...

AFAIK you should be able to get the female side (receiver), colour isn't important as long as the pins line up. The alternative may be to cut off the TTS connector completely and replace with a more modern automotive connector but that is a bit of a faff and I'm sure you know the story of...

Aaaahhhhh, one of them tricky technical problems then! I won't tell if you don't. Glad you got it sorted. Good luck with the vibration/shudder, I guess that won't necessarily be as easy to sort. Chin up keep smiling and all that!

Is it one of these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-Rists-9-Way-Blue-Pin-TTS-Series-Electrical-Wiring-Connector-Kit/131410056379?hash=item1e98a654bb:g:IKcAAOSwwqdZ5OER

Check both prop shafts - UJ bearings are possible causes. Also check the transfer box output bearings. Did you find out what your idle problem was?

MMMMMMMM............ A bit odd for sure. New cats and sensors shouldn't affect cold start because the ecu ignores the O2 sensors until the engine is warm (70deg.C or thereabouts). The high revs suggests possibly a stepper problem. I think I would start by removing and cleaning the stepper and...

A misfire at high revs could be a number of things. I think I might start with the ignition amplifier. Also check the battery and the alternator output. Vac leak is a possibility and unfortunately so is HGF, so maybe do a full (wet and dry) compression test - you'll need a strong battery for...

You might change your mind when you see the price of a throttle pot. That said, I have a vague recollection of seeing a more reasonable replacement based on a put together adaptation of a different pot and mounting. Anyway, whatever. As for the butterfly - yes, absolutely. Take off the plenum...

Vacuum test is quite easy. First get yourself a vacuum gauge. You'll need to attach the gauge to the plenum, I pull the vac pipe for the heater on my RRC, not sure if there is a suitable vac port on a D1 but would think there may be a blanked off port you could use. Do not use the vac line to...

Sounds intriguing. I suspect there is something simple not playing the game. If it passed MOT emissions the engine is fundamentally sound. The cat test does two measurements, idle and fast idle although there is no load. Maybe a little obscure but at this time of year depending on...

Apart from the air suspension ECU and combined memory seat and mirrors ECU all you really need is a multi-meter. AFAIK there is no "diagnostics" for seat ecu; the internal battery leaks and destroys the board and some of the pins on a couple of the chips. Unfortunately the board has two layers...

1990 makes more sense. It can be a minefield. Mine is an HA Vogue SE on a '91 J plate but that was a change over year so some bits are 1990MY, for example, the swivels, other bits are 1991 on. Good luck with it, the ABS can be, well, errrmmmm, challenging. Once it is working fine and no warning...

Clearly there is an ABS fault. Your first move has to be getting the blink codes from the ecu. Once you know why the red light is on you can then troubleshoot the system. If pulling to the right, check all the calipers (front and back) are working correctly. Sticking pistons are a common...

RRC and ABS oh joy!! The brakes are relatively good generally but the rear calipers are prone to seizing. Disco 1 has a similar issue. Don't be fooled by the lack of action and/or fluid. The RRC ABS system has two parts, the hydrostatic system and the combined power and hydrostatic system. To...

Sooooo, you've replaced the hydraulic booster unit. Simple enough. There is only 1 pipe connected to the accumulator, this is not likely to have anything to do with no rear brakes. Now, as it happens the braking system is two in one. you have a HYDROSTATIC CIRCUIT and a POWER CIRCUIT. The POWER...

Hi Jai, nice to see you're still about. Me, I'm doing better. Walking is still painful; it's a bit like having two sprained ankles, especially first thing in the morning. Apart form that not too bad. Just completed some repairs on the Rangie. The back axle was weeping where the diff pan rotted...