you should use the top 2 and the bottom 2 holes , my stand is a clarke and you can see the adjusting brackets and the long 10mm bolts with additional locknuts, it can revolve 360 degrees and lock in position just under the rubber gloves with a pin this is on my 2286 engine but very similar block...

CharlesY knew his engines and how to loosen bolts, That plug is similar position to the 2286 but without the inspection cover , do you have one at btm as the 200tdi should, wonder if it’s a hybrid or off another engine, see if it lines up when engine at TDC a or EP with slot in flywheel There...

I got a kit like this, the 9.5mm? dia goes in injection pump, while the other bit screws in btm flywheel cover screws in slot in flywheel stop it turning

If you have original honing that’s good, similar to mine the rusty coloured pot might clean up ok ensure no pitting , it’s probably standard bore , if you clean top of pistons some stamping might confirm it Bore should be nominally 90.47mm , if you borrow internal mic you can check between bores...

Cleasby’s good for rebore cost me £240+ vat 2 year ago on the 2286cc, but the 200tdi practicallly had no bore wear could still see the original honing marks after 125k

http://smithies.co.nz/land_rover/ Some manuals here, the injectors strip down easily if you’re going that father, i bought one of them ultrasonic cleaners to the clean the disassembled injectors worked really well getting rid of hard carbon Just leave injection pump in for now until time to...

Best to put in on u tube and post the link on here

Different to how mines plumbed in 😗

Just had a look on mine 1 comes from top fuel filter connection and is the supply to the IP 2 pumps to fuel filter , the other union on lift pump is from tank 3 is the fuel spill line from injectors and back to tank via a banjo union

There’s several 200tdi check and rebuild thread in the engine section if you search, nice engine to work on And also a good 200tdi rebuild article here https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/blogs/news?page=2

If starting without rad I’d still connect some pipes and fill with water to run it so don’t get too hot

Nice one, I’m a bit of a list man myself and would start documenting what’s been done , what need doing , what parts you have new and old to be fitted then label all those little seals and gaskets. Then decide whether to keep tdi or di then I would start with the engine as easier with the access...

I’ve a hardtop and don’t recognise the part But all the parts should be here either in the main or supplementary parts books but bedtime reading for you http://smithies.co.nz/land_rover/

Galvo chassis about £2k new sounds a bargain

Have you Googled the part numbers

Did you check for any wear ridge top of cylinders

The bendy bit 😀

it’s lasted fairly well

Think that would be doable making various patterns maybe out of thin ply, been working with west systems 2 pack epoxy repairing a wooden dinghy but not cheap but cheaper than this...

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