I dont understand your doubts, i can't explain better than i already did, i said "splice into" which means use posi-taps or skotchlocks or something into the wires as they are, it's nothing about pulling or cutting anything and you can take +12V from the fusebox and earth from any metalic part...

HERE is one for 4HP22 without other suffix which has the VB covered too, i've never seen one dedicated for the D2

I've never cut the sleeve on a genuine one to see how it's inside, that metallic side seems the attenuator but that pipe is definitely not genuine

here's a rough diagram for the pipes

I hate mechanics who are reading a fault code then that's it :mad: If the sensor is new and the code is about it's circuit the logical move would be to check the circuit IMO, the live input while cranking or whilethe engine runs would be the first step(it can be started with spray for a short...

Check the ECU ed plug for oil

In this case seems that nanocom has more kind of oddities when it comes to ABS cos i've seen only cases when the code was wrong and the live reading correct but if the guy from down under was right the probem in this case is with the live reading instead of the code, or the SRD000150 ECU which...

I don't think so, unfortunately the discussion might have got mixed up there a bit... IMO if the code is for the front left but if you unplug that one and the live reading goes to zero on the rear right the problem is the rear right

Hi, it's quite common glitch, you have all the info you need HERE read it all ...btw what year is your D2? maybe i'll find a pattern cos it doesnt happen to all

IMO they are not 100% the same

That would be revealed also by some live readings unless it's replaced with a known good one based on a hunch

Hi, follow down the the battery main earth lead to not be loose or corroded (i dont know where it is connected on the defender)...according to other site it's: "Partway along the cable there is one 8mm terminal which is bolted to the chassis at the gearbox crossmember, and then a 10mm terminal...

Seems quite complicated if that's what you mean

No, that would have other symptom like overboost, it would affect acceleration above 2500rpm, find other real specialist who knows how to diagnose a Td5, as i said live inputs are necessary

Unplug the MAF sensor and see how it runs that way... if it runs well a new MAF is needed but only the genuine LR is reliable which is frigging expensive so better without it than with a cheap aftermarket which can mix up things... to avoid a guessing game the straight way to the problem is a...

Hi, Is it Eu2 or Eu3 engine? manual or auto?

^^^ That's the only straight way to fix it otherwise it's a guessing game

Actually it might work from the driver's door too if you are lucky but that's not 100% sure... so remove the driver's door card, unplug the actuator and splice with two wires into the pink/grey and pink/purple wires from pins 6 -7(attached) as to be able to feed those wires from outside...

The best would be to try with nanocom body outputs from BCU to force the superlock first to rule out the BCU before chasing other issues... you can try a trick but you'll have to do somehow to remove one door card from any door other than the driver's as to reach the actuator's connector, if you...

Then you have a serious problem as they are all superlocked which means something happned on that particular circuit... a nanocom or similar is needed to try to force the superlock motors unless it's a BCU or wiring issue... on a scale from 1 to 10 where are you when it's about understanding...