Post by Montyjohn

@Frank_38 depends where you're based. If outside the EU, check your local exchange rates & make sure you select the "without VAT" option. Also which engine type ? GEMS & EDC are £40 more expensive than Thor Motronic ?? For example, Blackbox price for the GEMS version in GBP is £404, but...

Got injector pump out today. As I need to sort thermostat as well, I drained coolant & remove the various hoses at the front of the engine. Cleaned the pump exterior of the years of oil, dirt & grime, and then took the regulator off. Both rubber & plastic o-ring not looking their best...

Been looking at both these solutions for my son's TD4 Auto. I failed to get the Renault stat into the hose, so bought one of those aluminium adapters. Was planning to fit it after all the other engine stuff is sorted, BUT noticed a leak on the standard stat the other day. So gotta replace...

They appear to be quite thick castings. Could you simply smooth down the pitting & then re-chrome ? But how much is chrome plating ? Black or chrome replacements are around £200 inc VAT.

Not got any, but that reminds me to dig out my Hantek 1008C Scope while I'm working on Son's TD4. I'm curious to see what the fuel regulator & turbo actuator drive voltages looks like. As it's 8-channel, will try to get a few simultaneous waveforms. I'm assuming the MAF, MAP, Rail Sensor...

Stop-start traffic & the trailer probably lowered it quite a bit. I generally get 15-16 around the local area, but last year doing regular runs from Langley to Ferndown was definitely averaging 19-20 assuming no holdups on the M25-M3-M27.

Went through a similar issue a while back. A mate of mine was selling his 2003 3-door as spares & repair, but the rims were in better condition than my wife's 2005 Facelift. Found the 2003 had 15" rims & wife's has 16". The smaller alloys definitely do not fit the later facelift !!

Possible progress ?? Today I tried the fuel Rail pressure sensor from my wife's TD4 in my son's car. (Just a test on the driveway because son's car is currently on axle stands !!) Both diagnostic runs were recorded in Son's car, so everything else was the same. The thing that stands out...

RAVE assumes you drained the system previously. You seem to have missed 12 & 13 in the procedure ? Personally I have an issue with step 17-18. Step-17a should be to top up the system while the thermostat is still open !! Also during step-15, that's when you also need to keep squeezing...

I suspect the "disconnect battery and short ECU 12V & ground together" method is completely irrelavent on modern cars. It generally comes from old pre-OBD ECU with volatile memory. But it gives you something to do while waiting for recovery !!

Did you follow the RAVE fill procedure ? If not, then you will almost certainly have an airlock. Are you getting flow through the small pipe from the radiator to the coolant tank ? Also did you clear it before starting the fill ? As others said you should have hot coolant flowing to the...

As Kermit says, they are separate issues. You have confirmed the replacement accumulator has fixed the pump running every brake press. Brake lights on the back of the car are most likely the pedal switch - reset the adjustment, or replace it. If you plan to keep the P38, then you will need...

I suspect you still have airlocks in there ? You could also put the sensor in boiling water & see what your diag tool says then ?

3 glowplugs wqere replaced last year. The one in cylinder-2 is still stuck fast in the engine. But these should only impact starting, and not running whne engine is warm. EGR blank arrived & waiting for FIP & Regulator seals - these will be done in next few days. Also my wife is away for...

or a thin spanner

+1 on this. Did you remove both sodes at the same time ? If so, thats why the asle rotated a bit.

If the header tank cap is tight with no leaks, I would say until you release the pressure. more likely is a slow depressurise through the pump (unless it has a suitable valve ?)

When I did mine I did the chamfer about 5-6mm. Next I do some, I plan to buy one of those taper bearing races (unless someone nearby has the LR tool).

Did you chamfer / bevel the end of the bush plastic outer ? If not it's difficult / impossible to even get it started. Ring compressor is a good idea, but with jubilee clamps you can remove them one at a time as the bush goes in.