Clutch appears to have sorted itself. I think if the master cylinder is open, pedal down, the air finds its way up. See how it goes. Then other technique I have used in the past is to remove the master cylinder, take the push rod off and compress the piston fully. The LR push rod has an plastic...

So we have a running engine. Haven't fitted the inlet or intercooler hoses yet as I want to clean the intercooler out first but turbo is whistling on reving and no leaks !! It has a bit of TD4 clutch syndrome. New slave fitted and the master worked when driven in on starter motor. But then I...

Driveshafts and subframe back on. Wishbones cleaned and painted with Poly boots on ball joints. IRD and Gearbox filled with oil. A good tip, easier to fill gearbox before fitting subframe if you have it removed for any reason. Anti roll bar repaired with collars to replace the rusted rings...

Reverse.

Thanks

Anyone recognise the vehicle in the 'gearbox end' photo ??

Here you go - engine bay shots, the bits that you can't easily see with the engine in place. Photos taken standing inside the engine bay with some key components listed to allow you to work out where you are looking ! TD4 Manual Facelift vehicle. Looking up at LH end of steering rack, top is...

Isn't your headlamp leveling on left of steering wheel ?? Any which way there is a blank on the opposite side to the level switch.

BTW. Grabber AT are noisey and slide about in the wet to the point that they scare me !!

I have 15, 16, 17 and 18 inch wheels on 4 different Freelanders. The 18 inch with 50 series tyres is best on the motorway but not good on pot holes. My 17 inch wheels with 225/65 Geolanders is by far the best ride and they last forever !! Well 40k and still good. Great in the wet too. So...

A solution that I came up with for USB and a useful battery voltmeter is this. https://ebay.us/m/e0yGIy It also fits in the right-hand spare blanked hole that is for LHD headlight adjustment. It is a tight fit but a touch with a file or sharp knife to remove molding marks and it looks great...

Replacement engine with working IRD now in car. Just have to connect it all up and rebuild the front subframe and wishbones, driveshafts etc. If I did it again I would remove the bolts holding the manual gear lever link arms on the bulkhead. These fit to the rods with the press fit ball ends...

Failed engine now out of car and on trolley with good IRD removed ready to fit to replacement engine and then pop the whole lot back in the car. Found a broken gearbox connector, 1st or reverse switch so fitted a spare plug to the loom. So the only ancillaries I left in the vehicle that is...

Green car into workshop, had a bit of an electric drive around on starter first as most of it will go in the scrap bin!! All bits in better condition than donor engine swapped over; pcv, fuel return hose, broken clips etc. All top disconnections made. Started underneath, all bolts soaked and...

Wear goggles !!

Just revisiting this idea. To accommodate the comments made, proposing Saturday 13th September. Again, if there are enough 👍then I will do some planning.

Engine cleaned up. Broken IRD off. Replaced clutch. Replaced vacuum hoses and starter motor contacts. Parked up on trolley waiting for IRD from failed engine then ready to go in. Have to strip out failed engine and box first !!

It's just this is your 4th post with the same problem. Makes it really difficult to see what responses you have had and what has been advised and tried. Remove duplicate posts, post results of tests and you'll find this is one of the best forums there is. Help yourself and keep it simple and...

Another one !!

It's out of the donor car. So about 3 hours to drain fluids and do all the top disconnections (that is disconnect not cut or chop !). And about another 3 hours to drop the front subframe, remove driveshafts and drop assembly out using an engine crane and trolley underneath then lift body off...