Genuine landrover bracket fitted, ANOTHER (luk branded) master/slave fitted and gearbox fluid drained and replaced. Bite point is much higher up now and the gears were behaving nicely even when the car was warmed up. The fluid that came out was very dark indeed! New clutch slave is much more...

Cheapo off ebay, obviously :p I've chocked the slave cylinder with a piece of wood, which helped things a fair bit as the slave had a lot of movement and the bracket flexed under load... :(

Well after a week of spraying oil and working the clutch it's pretty free now. The release arm can be moved in and out with my fingers while the slave is mounted and i can push the release arm towards the slave body by a good couple of cm easily enough. Clutch movement also seems to be...

Yeah the clutche pedal is now silent but you can still feel the worn part as you move it. Don't think it helps that my big feet dont push the clutch down straight and put a bit of sideways pressure on the peddle when i use it.

Cheers mate. It's feeling really nice now and isn't anywhere near as stiff to use as it has been, but.... and there seems to always be a but.... When the engine is up to temperature it stiffens up to the point where changing gear is almost impossible. When the engine is cold and getting up to...

I gave it a spray with the 3-in-one, which got rid of the annoying squeak noise from the pedal mechanism, but the grinding feeling is still there. Thicker oil?

Well the wd40 worked for a bit, then it was a little stiff for a while, free'd up a bit, went stiff again. Went for some 3in1 spray oil from wilkinsons and it's loosened up pretty well after a 5-6 hour soak in that! Just been for a drive round and the clutch is smooth through the whole range of...

Cheers for that, no idea what i'm doing with the injectors or how to remove them so will have to ask someone more knowledgable than i am tomorrow afternoon. Before i replaced it i unplugged the old 02 sensor entirely and the car seemed to run exactly the same so i picked up a replacement NTK...

So i got the new clutch hydraulics and the clutch release arm didn't really want to move over towards the drivers side very much. The clutch bite point was about 3mm from the floor and to disengage fully i would have had to cut a hole in the footwell to press it down further. Had someone pushing...

Thanks dude, the clutch release arm was pretty rusty and even with a 12" adjustable on the end it wouldn't budge. Soaked it in wd40 and managed to get it to move a bit smoother when using the spanner as a lever. Wont turn by hand but can be rotated fairly easily back and forth using just two...

Hi guys, hope everyone is well. Last night while changing gear on the dual carriageway my clutch went to the floor and never came back up. Looked inside the engine bay and the slave cylinder has split, theres a spring hanging out and fluid pouring out the bottom of the engine bay. Managed to...

Dizzy cap and rotor arm are both changed, new leads and replaced each spark plug with a fresh one.... made no difference. Been reading up that a head gasket failure can cook an 02 sensor. Well not cook exactly, but the coolant etc getting on them during failure turns them ****. Seeing as mine...

Yeah, parkers parts place has them in stock down the road from me so going to pick up a new one tomorrow. cleaned the current one off a bit and sanded the contacts clean. The car is still running lumpy, but when it isn't it feels a lot smoother and like its a little more responsive.

rotor arm looked okay, but 2 of the prongs on the cap had a sort of powdery white build up on them. Is that why i was only being zapped by two of the ht leads when i removed them earlier?

OKay, back in 10 :D

It's the 98 petrol. It does have the cap and rotor arm type, although i've never taken it off before. EDIT: Forgot to mention in the first post that the MPG is lower than it was when i first got it. £15 would get me about 70 miles, now i'm lucky if it gets me 60.

NGK platinum plugs, pre/self-gapped to 1.1mm? No idea on good quality HT leads, although i've a feeling plugs and leads were all changed roughly a year ago anyway. Will double check tonight on their age.

Thanks mate, one quick question though... How do i do the idle drop test? Googling throws me to a load of stuff about motorbike idles. I take it i need to disconnect them with the engine running to see if the idle gets slower, but where do i disconnect them? The latter two would be a...

Hi guys, Still having problems with my lumpy idle and i'm also noticing a problem with the engine suffering a loss of power. To better describe, idling from cold the engine seems a to judder occasionally that can be felt inside the car. No problems while revving the engine and as it gets up...

Starter motor has been sticking for the past few weeks and i got fed up of having to ask strangers to turn the key while i hit it with a hammer to get it going. So i finally got round to taking out the starter motor (that top bolt was really hard to get at/undone!), dismantling it and removing...