The oddity was that looked like factory fitted and was rock solid while on the other 4 was completely different and softer like this

Hi, what makes you think that the Nano 1 is not giving the correct code? the EVO is not the best with ABS faults so i'd buy a Foxwell beside the Nano 1 if only the ABS is your concern... Unplug one ABS sensor and read codes that way and if Nano 1 gives you that sensor'a code too means that the...

Mystery solved after a divine intervention :)... that black "seal-shape" thing was petrified carbon deposit, the one with the gap is normal ... it was injector nr.5 so the missing glow plug might have some effect too.

It's explained clear enough in both docs i sent you(diagrams and electricall ibrary) in the introduction but you must use acrobat reader to see them properly and go dirctly to where yoiu need... for example in the "charging and starting" diagram you can see that the WG(white/green) wire from...

the connector views are from the pins/cavities side and for each pin there is the wire colour code... read the user guides in the diagrams file and HERE if you want troubleshoot yourself such things

Bizarre indeed... the pics came from a friend of mine, the pics are after he removed the old washers, i dont know much about these things cos when it comes to such jobs i pay my mechanic... i searched a lot by p/n and didnt find a pic from that position

Yes that would be the good move, then unplug C0605(maybe it's just bad contact in it) and check continuity from pin 3 to inertia switch, if interrupted rewire that one, if you have continuity the probem is within the fusebox, you must have continuity between the corresponding pin on the fusebox...

Hi all. The injectors were removed from the same engine... how comes that the first one has a kind of gap around the nozzle where the washer fits and the other has like a seal??? the other 3 are all like the first one with the gap :oops:, am i missing something???

No such thing Yes, it should at least start and idle on LP but if you start it with spray and the injectors are opening it must idle even without HP, if it dies after it burns the spray means that the injectors are closed Thast's not very relevant as long a the ECU was not scanned on the...

Yes, the power from F13 through the inertia switch one side and earth from ECU the other

Hi, I recommend KYB brand, very good quality/price ratio and not very expensive: Example for rear

You have to check in the main relay coil's cavities what's missing, the power or the earth to see why it's not closing on ignition and if it's missing the power it can be a problem in the fusebox if F13 is not blown eventually check if there is power from F13 to inertia switch's brown/black wire...

Part of it cos the it's full name is XYZW switch in reality (attached) the inertia switch closes to power from F13 to relay's coil the ECU delivers the earth to main relay and the BCU gives earth to starter relay(cuts it when immobilised) so if you bridged the main relay and the pump started...

Foxwell NT 520 or 530 or 510 Elite for Land rover which ever you find cheaper, for example THIS which is the cheapest i know with free shipping, it came to me in one week, seems that UK sellers are more expensive... it's better for SLABS than nanocom which has some glitches in that area while...

Hi. Presuming it's about a D2(cos there are other 4L petrol discos as well) better buy an affordable diagnostic tool(e.g Foxwell which is good except the engine management where it has some glitches) rather than struggling with multimeter all around but if you want to go the hard way see...

As long as it's the same p/n means it must be fully programmable for any vehicle specs which were fitted with that one IMO, any upgrades or mods would come with a p/n supersession, that's how it works

did you try to connect it to SLABS or autobox ECU too and you get the same message? ACE has nothing to do with that...if the pump doesnt run are you sure is not dead? what if you bridge the pump relay? cand you hear it then?

Charge the battery to full and check the inertia switch to not be unplugged/disturbed or tripped... the immobiliser has nothing to do with that cos immobilised = no crank to which ECU? did you try to access all of them and no comms at all?

Seems that THESE GUYS are charging £365 for the work so it might be a starting point

The bolt is to remove the old seals... tap in the new seals and bin that black plastic part but after you removed the old seals clean very well the holes cos the old o-rings used to get stuck in there or leave residues which can hurt the new ones and they'll leak, it's up to 140 bar there when...