That's classic IDM or BCU failure, quite common and can have various symptoms: =sierrafery&o=relevance']CROSSED B Replace the fusebox ASAP cos this issue can become worst in no time then it might be immobilised... maybe you are lucky to be that not the BCU

Hi, for the central locking check fuse F1 in the interior fusbox but not just visually make sure it has power on it both sides(you can measure on the small exposed metal pins in situ) ... as about explain that better, what's the symptom anyway, to cut a long story short the best would be to...

The only simple and certain way to rule it out is to replace the receiver with new or 100% good one as it's plug and play and if no joy then suspect the BCU or a wiring issue, usually a BCU fault would not affect ONLY the RF function

Here are the docs you need, save to computer and open with acrobat reader: 1. D2 circuit diagrams 2. D2 Electrical library 3. D2 WSM though if you want to fit a D2 electronically managed autobox to the defender you must be very skilled with electronics and understand exactly how everything works...

If they are very tight dont expect them to last too much

i'll give you the diagrams just tell if it's Eu2 or Eu3 engine

Hi, i respect your work albeit you should have asked before fitting additional switches as there is a more simpler way to bypass the BCU if that's what you want(not my way of fixing things)... the switches and wiring are already there all is needed is to splice into two door switch inputs to the...

Usually an electrical problem would bring on the amber or red warning instantly after the self test and should not affect the activity in the reservoir cos at idle the fluid recirculates with free flow, unplug all the solenoid connectors and watch if the activity in the reservoir improves or not...

So, tested nanocom on mine, the values at idle from cold start are as in the pic with slight fluctuations(there are moments when some silly values are displayed for a second but that's certainly a glitch), on the DCV's the values were 0.000 at first then i checked again after the output tests...

Then that ECU is very suspect, of if the ECU is OK there is a power or earth issue to it... you must try with a 100% good one before chasing a potential wiring issue on that path cos that can be a nightmare

Hi, if you are you 100% certain that the ECU is not at fault all the symptoms can be the result of missing power supply or earth to the ECU btw can nanocom communicate with the BCU and ABS ? if no comms at all with any ECU the problem can be the BCU too or a wiring issue... complex...

They all should have it(nr.5) but it's sold separately

The P clip has nothing to do with the ACE, as the system passes the self test and the warning appears only when the ACE becomes active(at around 20km/h) and considering that the codes are correct + weak fluid activity IMO the problem is most probably hydraulical. The system is very sensitive to...

That means that the system passes the initial self test hence the good idle readings and it detects low pressure while driving ... did you take extreme care to not let any dirt into the block when you changed it? btw, what's the fault code now?

Have patience untill monday then i'll make some tests with nanocom on mine to see how it behaves with a 100% working system cos i dont have much confidence in it when it comes to ACE, i'm asking again: ... that 20km/hr thing means that the warning goes out after the self check and comes on just...

I don't really think the pump was damaged albeit not impossible but as discussed in post #14 it's possible that the attenuator was somehow hurt and now it restricts the flow, unfortunately i don't khow how that feed pipe was built... i hope you erased the code before the drive test and if yes...

You should have road tested it before diagnosing cos it's possible that the ECU had a hystorical fault logged.... the outputs should work only with relay in it's place... erase the codes and road test it then we'll speak

Maybe we understand differently how this works, once the air in the tank was pressurised to 1.4 bar due to the expansion of coolant i dont think that pressure will drop to zero once the coolant cools down cos then the level in the tank would drop more that it used to... and from my experience...

Why? it's supposed to be a sealed system and the valve works with the air which is in the expansion tank , for example if you pump up a tyre to 1.4 bar and let it over night will it be no pressure in the morning?

the tank's cap has a pressure valve to keep 1.4 bar in the system so as long as the top hose doesnt become rock solid while driving and it runs cooler rather than hotter i dont think it's a HG problem which would create overheating or coolant loss