It is a common fault on this unit, and up until a few years back the only way to fix it was a new box as spares were not available. The spares are predominantly American I think, and tend to be bullet proof.

Have you tried the one wheel up test shown in the vid to get a visual confirmation that it is failing? You're better reading the terms of your warranty and speaking to them direct than asking on a forum, any answers on this are going to be pretty broad guesses as you have all the paperwork...

The price sounds almost too good to be true, wonder if the claim made in the last sentence is something they will stand by as well? Worth asking them a few more questions and finding out from them how many Freebies/JATCO boxes they have done in the past. If they're kosher, work is warranted...

hmmmmm. No idea what this German gasket you mentioned is, but if the bloke fitting it has had a good track record with them he'd probably like to see it if you've got a problem now. Personally I prefer the MLS as a fair old bit of cash was chucked at sorting the problem out, but they only last...

I'd normally agree with other coolant sealers as they have been known to constrict the water passages in the K series unit and wreck it in the process. However, and this is based on comments from other non-turbo K series drivers who have tried it and found it was effective for them, K-Seal...

While your playing with the breather filter take off the hoses and flush them through with carb cleaner or old petrol, then rinse them out with water, then dry them out thoroughly and put them back. Do that every time you change the oil, which if you are a bit suspicious about servicing you...

Sounds like the unit closes the leak when warming up through expansion. Unusual one, that. I was going to suggest trying some K-Seal, 75 owners have given decent reports about it, but I'm not sure it would work as the leak may heal before it gets a chance to do it's stuff. Has the gasket been...

It would help if you could describe the problem in a bit more detail and if there are any associated noises, plus have you done the basic checks, like the wheels are secured properly, one or more tyres are not deformed, balance weights haven't disappeared etc.

Have you had a good stare under the bonnet with the engine running to spot any water escaping, put newspaper down to catch drips and leaks? Have a good look round the bottom of the bay for any staining or obvious pooling anywhere. Don't automatically assume the problem is directly above though...

Dim memory time, but there was a development Maestro fitted with an early K, and a Freebie mule was disguised as a Maestro van (not hugely convincing), but no production models. I'll say this as a fan of the engine, it's got some bloody good ideas in it and was way ahead of the game when...

On your budget get an oil burner, have it subjected to a decent service by someone who actually knows something about Freelanders instead of regaling you with myths and bollocks (which rules out most garages to be honest) and don't ignore any faults, however seemingly insignificant. Freelanders...

Before you do, is oil consumption negligible and is the oxygen sensor working. Never hurts to cover all the bases before splashing out.

Dunno, just askin' like.

You got me curious to know why........

The info on the various hoses etc is definitely on RAVE, should be in the chapter titled something like Engine, L Series.

Aboslute top of my head, between 120 - 150PSI, and the figures should be between 10% of each other. Whip off the crank sensor plug to disable ignition and fuel when doing the check. If you're not losing coolant, then I'd be more minded to look at the cat, especially if it original.

From memory K-Seal has had some good reports with non-turbo 75 owners. Not used it myself though so I can't help really.

The colour in OAT is only a guide to type, and although it can help in tracing a leak through its colour it is better to add dye in as it will help to positively identify a leak. As Mad infers, might be worth your while throwing the car back at the repairers if the signs are the head gasket is...

Put some tracer dye in the coolant to get a better idea where the problem might be. Don't assume it's HGF just yet, especially as the inlet manifold seal can be a weak point too.

Most likely to be either the slave cylinder is duff or the clutch needs replacing, at that age may as well do both while it's in bits.