i always like to grease nipples!

is there any problems with the polly bushes being too hard and losing the suppleness of the susspension? is it best to use a combination of standard and polly?

well i would expect there should be a grease nipple to grease the splines but i could be wrong, it may be possible to pop seal then push in some grease but i would check for a nipple or at least a hole for a nipple to screw into on the side first

you could try tracing where the light is plugged into the loom and unpluging in, then see if the alternater behaves itself, then u will know its the light on the roof wiring

looking at the picture is is as dry as a bone, not been greased

if the landy is registered already and all you want to do is change the engine and gearbox then all you need do is send the log book away with a change of engine number, as for if your converting to a caravan, isn't that just a modification ?

i am south east, kent, tunbridge wells

Hi all, i have been stripping and spraying a 110 chassis, getting near the rear i find some holes (no jokes please) i need a rear cross member with extensions, so i wonder where the cheapest place to get one is, also i want to put on a new bulk head, how hard is it to fit a newer td5 one as they...

lol thanks for all opinons, so it sounds to me you all favour hammerite more than waxoil shutz? one thought i did just have is that the electricity pilons round my way are all painted with some special black paint with bits of zinc or something in it, i never see a rusty pilon lol

what r your thoughts on just spraying on waxoil shutz?

my experience of hammerite is bad to be honest, i don't think it stops rust like oil or waxoil

going back to the enamel paint, is that the toughest stuff?

funny, my old man used to make wrought iron gates etc, i just have this feeling that waxoil shutz if chipped or scraped kind of heals itself, paint peals off and flakes, in my opinion in the past when i use hammorite it doesn;t stop rust, am i right?

thanks, think i will lift the chassis up on end and get steam cleaner in evry hole, what about using that that waxoil shutz( the black stuff ) on the outside?

Hi all, just bought me a 1984 110 diesel off ebay, oh god what have i done, it was described as needing a small amount of welding for mot, well it is starting to fold in half but rather than say b****r off i paid up and now have got to re chassis it, now, i have bought a chassis off a 1991 110...

fyi also for a new one, i have noticed before this evening my distributer says some thing like dru7582-12v-56a or something on it, don't quote me on number but i pay attention to the 12v bit?

Well thats interesting, i was talking to an ex serviceman who used to work on them and he said the black box that sits next to the coil on top of the back of the engine, between the coil and the bulk head if you like converts the coil to 12volt?

I also have just picked up an ex mod 109 that's 24v, do i need to keep the two big battery's in the back that i assume are for the radio gear?

Hi all, i just picked up my first mod landy, its a 109 and 24v, now, it has two large nato battery's in the back and thats it, i assume for the radio, is the starting system 12 or 24 volt and do i need more battery's? help? Also great fun site, keep up the good work.