Yes, they're on my list of good suppliers, used them many times.

This worries me. It's one of my likes of my landrover that they are just a big box of meccano, but it's a problem when you never know what the PO has done - and with them being easy to work on, any old bodging might have gone on. "Some" bodging is OK - it's not safety related - but different...

I hear you - I just enjoy the learning of spraying (I have done a bit over the years) I reckon I can do 70% of it in the garage hopefully since all the panels are off. It's just the rear tub I might have to do outdoors. Did a semi-reasonable job on some metallic black mudguards last autumn that...

I think my summary of the whole bulkhead affair is that even back when I owned a Stage 1 V8 in the mid 90's, it was always that the bulkhead is a nightmare. But having built many other things in the meantime, one thing I always like about the LR is that it's basically meccano. I have an old Audi...

Lots of good suppliers. Many have an ebay shop which makes it convenient - but if you then find the part on their own site, it's sometimes little cheaper, or vice versa. I have a few favourites, many of which are listed above, that I always try to go back to - because I know the price is fair, I...

Absolutely. I know how to do the jobs I’ve done. Always happy to share my experience of those and always open to learning a better way to do it too. And for jobs I’ve not yet done, it’s good to learn from other peoples experiences to help make sure I do a better job first time.

Quite a bit already done actually that will put it in good stead for the chassis eventually. New battery box, 3.9V8, vented front disks, rear disks rather than drums, all new bushes everywhere, stainless headers, bulkhead removed, sunroof gone, rear fold down seats, rebuilt gearbox arriving in a...

Thing is if I take the heater and brake master cylinder off, I have to powder coat them. I’ll save that all for when I do the chassis.

Door switches? What is this newfangled witchcraft? I have recently upgraded to series 3 style doors with the sliding windows. Part 1 of the repair seems to have gone OK given how thin some of the remaining metal is. Have got a decent oxford welder though, which makes things easier.

It's a keeper (had it 13 years so far). I will patch the current bulkhead for now and do a proper galv bulkhead at the same time as I do a (galvanised) chassis - when it's due. I've been saying for the last 13 years that it'll probably need a new chassis in a couple of years.

Ta. I'll patch for now and replace when I do the chassis then.

Thanks. Yeah, I am debating the best course of action. Not doing a re-chassis yet, but it's on the cards in perhaps a couple of years - so sort of just debating whether to do bukhead now or patch it and then replace when I do the chassis. Wings, doors & roof are already off, so it's as...

Hi All, I've started cutting the rust out of my bulkhead and found much of the upper inner section is gone, including windscreen supports and vent panel. These are bits that YRM and others don't make repair sections for. What are good replacement bulkhead options these days? My buddy got a...

I didn’t change hubs when I upgraded to vented? Although I did put a new axle on when I upgraded rear from drums to discs.

Generally I agree - but on a critical part such as brakes, with a new helicoil, I would stick to the spec. If it can't take the torque, it's not been repaired properly. A good helicoil job with a new bolt should be as strong as, and sometimes stronger, than the original. But more general...

It's a finer thread, so will have a different (lower) torque setting to achieve the same clamping force. I'd be repairing like for like though and make sure it's a good job.

My general view is that as long as the repaired thread can take the correct spec torque, your’re good. Esp since most of the caliper load is in sheer, not tension. With regards to changing the thread though, I’d do the sums. What I mean is that with a different thread, you need to make sure the...

Thank you. That's fine, I'll take 60K with it being "quietish". That'll give me more than a decade of use before it needs doing again. Would have been disappointed it we were only talking 6K though. :)

I wouldn't bother with degreaser - just use paraffin which I am sure you can get locally. Put "higher value" stuff in the case

Hi All, Cracking on with the jobs to do a bit of a refresh on the wagon and since quite a few things are apart, have decided to also refresh the gearbox. Not really up for converting to R380 or Auto, so have stumped up for an ashcroft box using their 6308 sleaved bearings (instead of FRC2301)...