Ok, you noticed my top radiator hose, it should have been one peice but I trimed it 1/2 inch too short, then had to cut it and insert the extra bit to stop it coming off it's mounts.:rolleyes: I have now got a peice of stainless in there.

Cheers, it all looks tidier like that. As I sayed earlier, credit to Patman whos thread I got my insperation from:D. By the way, trouble with getting the pics to show was 'cause the album was set to 'private' :doh:

Really weird. They are in a LZ album, and I followed the instructions on how to insert pics in a post???:( Done it before and it worked:confused:

What do ya mean, I get all three pics when viewing this?:confused: Can anyone else see the pictures??

I'm in Henstridge.:)

(first pic) I cut away a bit of the intake pipe on the air box to allow clearance for the flexi pipe to come up around into it. It's the original Defender flexi coming from the intake side vent with the end stuffed up in to the airbox. I made the brackets from some odd bits I had in the shed...

Here's my version, idea curtesy of Patman; And that's a Disco 200tdi and Disco airbox in a 90. :) Cheers.

The original thought about braided pipe work was because I have done brake lines on bikes in the past and have some idea about how to do it, and the advantage of not going rusty appeals.:D A later thought after I'd posted was "I've got a roll of stainless hose some where" I think I'll try...

Cheers for the replies. :) 2 questions - 1)Would the 110 have the same end fittings as the 90, I thought they had discs on the back? 2)Where would you go to get them made ? (I did wonder if motorbike garage could make up braided stainless pipes to fit?).

Does anyone know the part numbers for the rear brake pipes on a 1987 90 with drum brakes? It's the metal pipes that run along the axle that I'm after, I can find every other piece of the system from suppliers, but not these pipes.

Nearly finished fitting braided brake hoses. Got defeated by the mounting nut on the rear hose being completely seized up and corroded.:rolleyes: I will beat it in the end, going to buy an angle grinder in the morning:D.

Easiest and quickest way to tell if it's A Defender or a Disco engine is the position of the turbo. The Defenders is sat near/at the top of the engine, where as the Disco's is low down at about the same level as the starter motor. :)

Hi If you've got a genuine Defender 200Tdi I believe this is the sender you need; PRC8593 TEMPERATURE TRANSMITTER | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series But if your landy has a Discovery engine then one of these two senders is what's required; Steve Parker Land Rover Servicing, Land...

Yes, that's the kind of thing I'm thinking of. Found some new ones from one supplier, but due to my current budget restraints I've decided to try out an idea I had to re-design the linking mechanism.:)

Had a look at your pics and it's made me think I might be able to do something with a set of inner handles like yours. :)

If anyone has pictures of the insides of their doors I'd very much appreciate it if they could post them on here so that I can see how they are set up.:)

I've used these guys for winch bits; eBay UK Shop - Electric Winch: Recovery Winch, off road, 4x4 And I get electrikery stuff like cables, connectors and infact any thing you can think of from here; Vehicle Wiring Products Ltd. Suppliers of auto electrical parts.

They're simillar to Morris Marina handels and were only fitted to Landys in 83-84. The replacements are getting hard to find and aren't as strong as the originals were made, which means they only last a couple months use before they bend or break.

Hi All, My 90 has had the doors changed by a previous owner and is fitted with the following catches; The internal latch part of these keeps breaking and this means I've had several MOT fails because of the damn things. Has anyone else had trouble with these and is there a different style...