Some pics to compare would help a lot Thanks

Yeah it's got a maf. So that's not an issue then. But the points do far apart is an issue?

Lol I'm assuming that's the maf? If so I'd assume its slightly faulty?

Ps I'm getting air temp reading of -38.88

This is the fueling info I'm getting.. Anything look untoward? That's at tick over.

Yeah I thought engine disabled was the fault requiring the EKA code. Are the keys coded to the ignition? If so I'd imagine it would require plugging into diagnostics to code the key. But how could it loose the sync? He said he'd drove it to the shop then come out of shop and had this problem...

Thanks for that.. Can you read the code with the nanocom? Also I'm sure someone mentioned before you can totally disable the security with the nanocom so there is no need to enter the code but I stand to be corrected on that one

That's not a bad price. If they feel bad I will be selling them.

Its a 1995 diesel. Manual. High mileage tho 175000 Does anyone know about the key code thing?

Yeah I will see if its got spigots on it, if not will get some ordered. I fitted 19" sport alloys to my last p38 and it didnt seem much different. But they look nice so I'm sure I can cope. Failing that I should get a few quid back for the wheels if I don't like the handling.

Just bought myself a donor vehicle that will be getting stripped for parts. Everything I don't need will be sold on to pull as much of my money back as possible. I think I paid over the odds for it but it has a set of 20" stormer alloys which I wanted for mine so it's ok.. Anyway it was sold...

I did try that and there was a noticeable difference with the maf disconnected. It was worse.

No it's automatic... I will get it on diagnostics as soon as my nanocom arrives.

Just a thought but if FIP timing out would that cause low power below 2000 revs? It's really really bad pulling off on any kind of Incline

The idle speed is just below 1000 rpm

Yeah I will check all that as soon as the nanocom arrives... Should have been dispatched today... The low power at low revs don't change with map connected or disconnected. Should I still replace that. ?

Also, after the advice given on my other thread I assumed the map to be faulty as it struggles to pull off up to 2000 revs then its off like a rocket. Trying to set off up hill is a joke, takes ages to get going....

It only seems to do it when asking it for power it seems to struggle to give... Other that when rolling down hill that time when the gearbox fault popped up.

Seemed a bit unusual for it to stall while rolling down a hill though. Not applying power.. Just rolling along in drive...

Thanks for the replies... It's stalling a bit recently, mainly when at low revs and not enough boost... As mentioned on my other thread... Perhaps a new map sensor may fix the stalling issue