Assuming petrol it's item 10 in this link. Heat shield, LR part number ESR4121 https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/91104/91120/7207/91168

There appears to be a faint bronze colour showing on the shells in your photos, esp the top one. If that is the case they are worn & getting to the end of their useful life so need replacing. Use a micrometer on the big end journals to check for any ovality.

I sympathise. Did the same trick some years ago with my Mercedes Sprinter 208CDi van. Syphoned the tank. Changed the fuel filter. (Filled the new one with diesel before fitting which is normal on the Sprinters) Refilled with diesel. After a bit of cranking it started & ran fine - & has continued...

Not an overhead camshaft engine so unlikely to be a bit of that. Anything getting there from above would have to have: 1. Been left in there when the heads were last off. 2. Been sucked in through an inlet valve. 3. Be a bit of the head of an inlet or exhaust valve. 4. Be a bit of broken spark...

I agree Perhaps using a bit of engineer's blue to identify any problems.

I think what he's saying is with the head removed & upside down with the valves in place is fill the dished area with water & blow compressed air into the respective inlet & exhaust ports whilst looking for bubbles in the water to see how well the valves are sealing.

https://new.lrcat.com/ Have a look through the relevant section in the link (probably 'C' )& you'll likely find a full description plus the LR part number.

Be an idea to put which Range Rover it is at the start of each new thread. Think a lot of people will just pass the post by without looking at your post history to find that out.

I believe it is possible to straighten it, there was a 'how to' on another forum but I can't remember which one. Involved putting a long piece of wood against the bottom centre of the top tailgate & the other end on the ground/opened bottom tailgate & pressing down on the bottom corners. Never...

If you don't already know always close the ally ones by pressing on the lower corners, not the centre. Unlike the steel ones they can bow slightly & you then start wondering why the catches don't engage as well.

Currently one on ebay. In Italy. A snip at EUR 259.00 + p&p. :eek:

PRC4606. Only used for a short time. Mine (1986 'C' reg) has the same. Problem they have is that the full current for the headlights is routed through the switch. The contacts get hot & melt the plastic of the switch. Because it melts the plastic it's not repairable. Mine did 2 before I went the...

Bad refurbs often result in leakage from the bottom seal as the sector shaft hasn't been replaced with a new one (or repaired & reground) & the area the seal seals on is often worn and/or pitted so a new seal doesn't last long. Common issue & also often a reason for people fitting a recon box in...

The earth strap is still required. If you leave it off then current operating stuff on the engine & gearbox will try & find any route it can which will overload other thinner wires. Used to be a thing with the original Minis which could weld the inner throttle cable to the outer! If the wires...

I suspect you've connected an earth wire to one of the positive live starter terminals - the wire with that eyelet at the bottom of the wing goes to a bellhousing bolt & is a main engine earth wire.

Lrcat might help https://new.lrcat.com/ Click on the image of the Classics & take it from there. FWIW mine's a 1986 non aircon RHD. The 4 round vents on top of the dash blow hot & cold. The 2 rectangular vents - one each side of the clock - are cold only. No1 in this pic...

Use the wooden block to seat flush. Make a washer out of 1.5mm steel to fit on the outer part of the seal. Place on the seal & use the block of wood to further seat the seal. Remove the block of wood & the washer & it should be OK.

If the seal is damaged fit a new one. Seals against the pulley assembly, not the crankshaft. If there is a groove or other wear on the pulley assembly where the seal seals you have a number of choices. 1. Fit a new pulley - ETC7339 - which are very expensive. Used ones may have the same issue...

Same box on the Classic. The torque converter is not fixed to the gearbox, just pushed on. They can easily slide forward & fall off if you aren't aware of that. Guess how I know! It can be an utter PITA to get back onto the box if it has moved forward & esp if it fell off. It's a big & very...

Congratulations. Welcome to the club!