Hey cummon now I didn't forget about it, I just got the bloody thing stuck in there lol

Problem is though, you don't want all that oil in contact with your cam belt!! And as for the wading plug business, if you haven't experienced any adverse effects then I wouldn't worry too much, just remember to fit the wading plugs in the future!

You mean in the fuel pump recess? If so, I agree lol

To change the front crankshaft oil seal, you'll have to remove the timing belt, slide the crank pulley off the crank shaft, remove the old seal and replace with a new one. Changing the seal isn't the hard part part, but reassembling the cam belt setup correctly can be a bit tricky if you've...

Common places for oil to start leaking: Vacuum pump, Past the O-ring on the cyclone breather, and judging by the pics, it looks as though your front crankshaft oil seal may be shot, with oil then blowing back over the sump when the Disco is moving. HTH, Lew

If it's just the bearing that's gone then that can be replaced, granted the circlip is a little awkward to get out, but a bit of effort and you've saved yourself £50!

Sounds good to me, I do rate the hammerite with added waxowl very highly to go over the red oxide!

Glad you got it sorted mate! I think a lot of people are led the path of buying a new fuel pump when this happens, and the solution is so simple!! Lew

I know a lady just up the road from me who's just had an engine swap...she bought a scrap disco for £250, and a local mechanic charged £600 labour to do the swap. I would say that's probably at the cheap end of the labour scale. HTH, Lew

How far did you advance the timing? Also, are you using the injectors from your old engine?

Glow plugs are needed pre-cranking because everything is stone cold, and the diesel is pretty thick. The Glow plugs heat the jet of diesel, allowing it to burn more easily. Yes the engine will start without a pre-heating system when cold, but when temperatures drop to -10, you'll be cranking...

Mine was fine, but would start smoking like hell (blue/white smoke) at around 2000rpm. People often misdiagnose this as burning oil, but it is in fact partly burnt diesel. Just advance your timing slightly (a couple of degrees clockwise), you'll know if you've gone too far because the engine...

Also, when you lined the cam mark up, how did you look at it on a level plane? I found that when using a mirror, what I thought was lined up was in fact considerably out when photographed with a digital camera! Might be worth you double checking the cam timing too. HTH, Lew

Any smoke at all? I had big problems last year after changing the cam belt. Had the Cam Flywheel and Pump marks lined up perfectly. Almost bought a new pump, then spoke to a diesel specialist who told me at high mileages the pump timing tends to wander slightly, and so the timing mark on the...

I totally agree with fishsponge, spot on mate!!

Bit of a tip with the solenoid! It's a right fiddle to get it back in, as the there's a cap which slots over the actuator rod and spring, which is not physically attached! Every time you go to screw it back on, the bloody thing falls off and you have to start again! If you put a little dab of...

Headlamp washer definitely not a fail.

Yes I've done that too, another good way of diagnosing it. However, I've found that if its a spider problem, it generally shows itself when starting, i.e having to turn the engine over and over before it will start. Sounds to me like your solenoid is just knackared and every so often cuts your...

It's purely down to engine temperature, you need heat in the engine for good combustion - hence the need for glow plugs on a cold morning. I've driven new L200s that are exactly the same!!

The fuel stop solenoid costs around £10 - £15 from the motor factors, I'd start my changing that. Have you had any problems with starting?