I Jet washed everything, then used a grinder with a wire brush attachment to get rid of the harder to shift surface rust. I then gave these areas a coat of red oxide primer, then once dry, applied a coat of hammerite with added waxoyl. 10 months on and I've had no break through rust, and the MOT...

I agree with Dave, the peace of mind you get by leaving it on far outweighs any advantages taking it off may have!

It is part of the EGR valve, when you remove the EGR the kit comes with a plug to block off the relevant port on the vacuum solenoid.

I think that's just a vacuum distribution unit, one goes to the EGR valve, another to the air box etc.

Well they haven't announced any details yet, so we shall see! Tbh, I'd be lucky to get another 2 MOTs out of the old girl, so as long as the parts last that long I'm happy!

They're also rolling out a 2 year warranty on their products soon....sounds good to me!

Provided the plug is still making a seal, don't worry about it. Do as The Big Lad says above and you'll have no problems.

Have you replaced the sedimenter seals? If the big one isn't sealing correctly, you'll be sucking air through when you try and prime the system, not diesel.

I vote valve stem seals. Oil will drain passed them over night and sit in the pots, then you'll have a load of smoke first thing while the oil burns off.

I seem to recall that the newer petrol ones contain platinum - good payday if you visit the scrappies with that! I don't think these primitive diesel ones contain any, they're more of a basic particulate filter.

I agree with the other posts above, check the hoses. I asked about the cam belt to eliminate mistiming. If it's not the hoses, then my bet is one or more injectors dribbling slightly, just get them tested at an injector specialist. Some diesel specialists do this for free. Lew

Ah mate thanks very much for the reply!! I'll have a crack over the weekend. Haynes do like to over complicate things! Cheers, Lew

Have you recently had a cam belt change?

Hi guys, The sump on my disco needs replacing. I've got the sump and rtv sealant, but I've been put off doing it after reading the proceedure in the haynes manual. Is it necessary to remove the trackrod and damper, or can the sump be removed by simply jacking the chassis? I know I've got to get...

Could very well be the pump timing, from what I gather the timing has a tendency to wander slightly at higher mileages. You can check the pump timing like this: YouTube - land rover technical 200tdi and 300tdi Bosch VE pump timing with the timing cover case intact

Just to follow up guys, it was the pump timing. I advanced the timing by a few degrees, and jobs a goodun. Thanks for the help, its appreciated!

Did you change the sedimenter seals after cleaning it? If you don't get a good seal, it will suck air and run crap. By any chance have you changed the cam belt recently? Sounds like the pump timing could be out...mine was. I had a blue smoke on the overrun, and when I held the revs at a...

Suppose I'll have to redo mine then! Thanks for the reply mate.

Hi guys, Just fitted a new cam belt (modified kit) to the disco. Can anyone give me a definite figure for the correct belt tension? Some people say 15Nm, others say that was revised to 11Nm. Cheers, Lew