So...separated the engine and found the clucth pedal was hard because the rivets that are on the actual clutch plate have separated,allowing the clutch springs to drop out to the bottom of the plate/cover(at the 6 o'clock position),thus wedge the same plate cover and cause it to jam against the...

ok...keep us posted..... :)

Hi Jason.. The reason was to also do a rear crankshaft seal,get a good look at the fly wheel condition...and at the same time do the fuel regulator....I know it can be done from underneath but if I take a little longer the working conditions may be more conducive ...engine at waist...

The last clutch has been in for about a year and it has'nt been cooked at any time...... Looks like it'll be an engine out job just to have a peep due to eliminating the other stuff... aaaagggghhhhh!!! :D

Update...phew... I downloaded a Td5 manual from here Defender2 - View topic - Defender TD5 Workshop Manual ....and was able to see that the clutch fork is indeed a different one...so I assume cast as had been mentioned both here and another forum...the diagram shows a beefed up one for sure...

You're one step ahead of me....lol I had just done the slave bleed before my son went to school(no one else here today and where I needed him to do the pumping) So...I'm just finishing a cuppa now and then out I go to get under the LR. This will of course confirm whether it's cast or mild...

Ok...(not Sean)lol I could try that and have a peep inside... I'll see what my buddy thinks about whilst separated whether or not he would do a clutch change.. Can't think of much more as I think all the usual suspect have been eliminated.... (Just trying to avoid any great amount of work..:) )

mmmmmm...ok inmates...... ...had a wee peep at the slave...I opened the bleed nipple to find that the pedal will go to the floor. So I take it that the hydraulics are indeed up to speed. However...the pedal will now travel to the floor albeit somewhat harder. It will not go into gear...

Keep us posted for sure..and yes a wee peep after the slave is off should asist greatly.. Thanks inmates so far.... :)

A HA!!!!!!!! Thanks to all inmates..... As stated I had this posted in other forums and some there would say the clutch fork may be cast iron......this sound about right with a 1999 early Td5?...mmmmm....the plot thickens.. If normal mild steel I'll break the news to my buddy who'll be none...

Ok...gotcha?..... .....the rod has travelled through fork,the rod can't return therefore the slave cylinder is at its max all the time?..kind of?? Am I almost there with this? :)

Ratty...would the symptoms of what you describe be a hard pedal at the top of the travel rather than the pedal hard at the floor??

Thanks for the replies....of course knowing my luck and the fact that the problem Sierrafery describes is quite uncommon...it's just about to happen again...to me... :)

I should have mentioned the clutch pedal is hard from the top of its travel .....just cant get any movement at all to depress it.... ?

Could some Td5 inmates here please have a wee peep over in the Defender forums at this thread?? My buddy needs help with a Td5 problem...or rather we both do as I'll be helping him:D http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/hard-clutch-pedal-130-td5-109259.html Thanks :)

My buddy was complaining,over the last week,of finding difficulty in selecting 1st gear and for going on into the other gears. On his way home from my house he got about 5kms when he reported the clutch pedal having become solid. There's fluid in the reservoir although the adjustment bar...

Can you guys post to France,or is it toooooooooo expensive a question :)

Morris Marina door handles I think....might not even be available nowadays in any scrap yard lol

That pix is now my screen saver.... :)

Nice,well shot picture...came across by chance sniffing around the forums..well done with the pix...