Thank you for the respones D - still not sure I'm going to fit one though. Regards Chris

I would invest in a spell checker

Seen a few snorkels fitted to Discovery TD5s but I've got a few questions on the practicalities, I have addressed most but interested in others views: 1/ What do you do about the dump valve at the bottom of the air box and the stupid rubber cover / 1 way valve which keeps falling off ? 2/ Have...

Don't want ANY water in the air box regardless of where it comes from. Looking at a Defender thread they seal up any drain holes. There is also another small square hole in the bottom of the box which I have filled with sealant. Seems pointless having the main intake at the top of the wheel...

What is the purpose of the dump valve at the bottom of the air box on a TD5 apart from potentially letting water in ! The rubber cover keeps falling off and the last time the car was serviced by a garage (several years ago as I have given up with any of them doing a reasonably job) it came back...

No seal betwenn pump and alternator but there is an O ring on the oil supply pipe.

Replacing seals and washers on the injectors is an easy job (replacing an injector requires linking to test kit for the ECU to recognise the new one). However neither job is a main dealer only, doing the washers is a DIY job, no special tools required. See this link for great advice on both...

Take a look at this thread - sounds like you have removed the air bleed valve. Part of mine disintregrated and caused all sorts of problems when starting. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f50/td5-fuel-pressure-problem-161412.html

Thanks for the replies - I changed the FPR about 3 months ago, the leak from that was differant to the current visual problem. Does not smell like diesel or feel like it and there is a different stain on my well used piece of cardboard !

Mine only breaks down when the wife is in it - easy fix but probably cheaper to get a new LR ! Had the same problem with the starter a few months ago, bought the ebay repair kit and everythings fine now (still have the wife and the Disco!).

I have oil leaking from the rear of the engine, drivers side. I replaced injector seals and washers a few weeks ago and re torqued them last week, there is no sign of any oil leakage from the rocker gasket or the plastic plug at the rear of the engine. Are there any other places oil could be...

Not bad, but tends to fail when the wife is in the Disco especially if close to home. Never failed on long journeys or abroad. However I have had to replace, from the front, the following: Radiator; MAF; Injector harness; ECU; Injector seals and washers; Radiator top hose; Expansion tank; Oil...

I hope it's not your turbo that's leaking. The oil (in vapour form) comes from the crankcase/camshaft breather tube which runs from top of engine into air intake pipe leading to the turbo. As it cools it reverts back to a liquid any where between the pipe and the inlet manifold. I have diverted...

Check the air bleed valve(s) in the fuel filter housing. I "lost" the membrane type cap on mine and had to wait for the air to be purged every time I tried starting. Take a look here, great diagram towards bottom of first page http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f50/td5-fuel-pressure-problem-161412.html

Check vacumn tubes to the waste gate mod. and turbo. Small split in one of mine caused a misfire

Yes the crank is still vented and yes it goes into a catch tank.

I've removed the crankcase/camshaft breather tube from the air intake pipe, plugged the hole with a cork! No point in removing EGR unit if you are still going to let foul air into the system. May not stop a run away but it lets the disco breath a bit better.

The numbers are not important, if you remove the injectors they MUST go back into the same port. Note the 5 character code on the top before you remove them and if you replace any the ECU will need to be notified of the new injector. FYI mine had the following numbers / codes: Cylinder 1 -1...

How do you fill the transfer box and gearbox, given up with garages and want to do a DIY job but seems bloody difficult to get a spout of any description into the filler holes especially as the car is on the drive rather than on a ramp ?

I believe the air con fan will run if engine temp gets too high and can remain on until reset with diagnostics tool. Is the fan you are talking about in front of the radiators, ie nearer the front bumper or the one adjacent to the engine, ie behind the radiators and furthest from the front bumper ?