Ok. So it's normal for the piston to stay compressed? Are there any checks I can do on the strut whilst it's off to make sure it's all ok? There is no evidence of fluid leaking from the strut.

Just took the strut off the car and removed the spring in an attempt to diagnose the graunching sound. The top mount bearing is ok. The bumper stop is spit and knackered, but more importantly I want to know whether the strut piston should rebound on it's own. If I push it right in it stays...

Cheers Nodge68. The lighter spring would make sense. Given I'd have to switch the springs over it seems rather pointless by a 2nd hand pair off a petrol engine. Anyone able to recommend a semi decent pair ~ £50 each or am I talking Britpart at that price?

Should be pretty straight forward as I had it out not long ago to replace the strut mount top bearing. A local garage put the new top mount bearings in mind and I just refitted the whole unit.

Haha. Not wanting to be a party pooper, but on this occasion I think I'll pass on being the guinea pig.

A local scrappy has a set of complete struts off a Petrol Freelander 1 and I want to know whether they will fit a Freelander 1 TD4. I expect they will, but just want to ask those in the know. Thanks

Just wanted to post this one final observation before I go stripping down the vehicle. I drove it this week when we had a very cold / frosty night and the knocking was really bad. Come the afternoon and the temperature increase, the knocking cannot be heard. Does that possibly change the...

Given what the newspapers reported this week regarding garages clocking vehicles legally, I will make sure the next time I purchase a vehicle I see every MOT certificate associated with the vehicle. I suspect the devious ones will have readjusted it at the time of every MOT so that you cannot...

From what has been said and the fact that we seem to keep vehicles until they are destined for the scrap yard doing the work of a newish vehicle is something I shouldn't concern myself with. As to garages not doing a great job, I only came across an example of such thing at the weekend when I...

The wife's Freelander 1 is getting to the point where I am forever replacing parts. As a result we are contemplating a 2/3 year old Freelander 2 sometime later this year. We purchased the current vehicle 10 years ago when it was only 3 years old. Back then I always had garages do the work and...

Thanks for the replies. Given the mostly positive replies and tips; putting them on whilst the vehicle is compressed and adding a ratchet strap or 2 as a safeguard has put my mind at rest to get a set and take the coil springs off.

Ok, thanks. It's no good, I'm going to bed as the stress of it all ...

Decisions, decisions. I think I might buy some coil spring compressors for £20 and strip the shock down first to see if I can see where the problem lies. I really cannot face another significant purchase without being 100% sure it will sort the issue out. I'll need to replace both as we are...

I need to take replace the coil spring off the front strut and want to hear from others who have used the Hilka ones from screwfix. http://www.screwfix.com/p/coil-spring-compressor-kit/45986#product_additional_details_container I appreciate a hydraulic one is the way to go, but for a tool that...

Thanks for posting that. Any idea what was wrong with the shock? Not a job I really wanted to do, but I suppose I have no choice. Did you replace just the one side or do both as they seem to recommend?

Haha. I just couldn't resist that one. Read too many horror stories of people using blow torches to melt the rubber ... Just relistened to the clip. 1:36/1:37 is the exact noise. "BTW why does your car sound like a cement mixer?" - Haha. I like the description!. Rear prop shaft...

I thought that was common knowledge ;-)

Thanks fellas. Just need to get new bearings on and then I can get it reassembled.

Ok thanks. I just read Hippo's guide on replacing the prop shaft bearings and he too makes no mention of realigning the shafts to VCU in their original orientation.

But if I don't fit them back on exactly how they came off the VCU, then the front and rear shafts will not be in their respective locations prior to removal? I am just trying to understand why both Rave and Haynes tell you to mark the front/rear shafts to IRD and rear axle prior to propshaft...