Yes, You need to take the window locks out completely. Takes a bit of wiggling. Then the screws in the bottom of the channel if they are still present. Then the rivet each end. Both windows then come out attached to the bottom runner. They are on like a T track. The plastic bits will be visible...

Well….. No3 is the bottom bit that the 2 windows sit/slide on. No7 and No8 are the bottom metal bits attached to the windows. No9 are the little plastic bits - these are fixed to the underside of the metal slide attached to the windows. Pat number: MTC6221 Hope that makes sense.

The bottom slides have 6 little plastic runners, 3 per window. These wear out. Tell tale is scratches in the bottom channel. Bit of a job to replace, and they are a ridiculous price at 3+ quid each. But if they are worn, changing the felt won’t stop the rattle when the window is open. oh, the...

Why don’t you fit Wolf ones? They appear to be available at about £60 each. The parts book says RPD500990

So, you will need some kind of proof you aren’t trying to register a vehicle you have just nicked and took the plates off. If you are buying from the company that bought it new, and they are some proper company registered as a business. Then you could be ok with a headed letter from them saying...

Probably no real negative to leaving it. Just it looks a bit weird to some. If you can get to the inside tube, then you could plug it then it will keep any water or cold air out for sure.

It all depends what information you have on the vehicle. If you have proof of age of vehicle and a really good story why it has never been registered then it could be ok. If not you will need to get them. What is the excuse for it not being registered already?

A pipe would have connected to both batteries then gone behind the side panel to the back of this. They are a real bugger to remove and plug the old hole.

All the FFR (fitted for radio) spec ones had a few batteries in the rear compartment. This was the breather for these batteries.

It is very clean and nice. But stating it has not been restored - well? Lots of overspray and a few bits missed. I expect it will fetch good money and the new owner should be happy. Searching, highlights it was for sale on ebay early 2021.

Mine had mangled phillips (or pozi?) when I fitted my roamerdrive. They came out pretty easy with a centre punch. Replaced with some allen head, or might have been torx.

So, Do you know what the advantage would be, by going to dual? It is of course depending on your usage and feelings, but dual is safer. Hence why it was brought in.

What do you need to know? Early Sankey had narrower track than a Defender Mk2, was often called widetrack. Same track as Defender. Difference easily spotted as widetrack had a tailgate, narrowtrack didn’t. The later Sankey with disc brakes (hydraulic) can be called mk3, widetrack. These had the...

Just fit a diesel fuel heater:)

I have fitted a Roamerdrive to an early Defender and it was easy, I did have to panel beat the transmission tunnel to clear the linkage, but apart from that pretty simple.

Here’s the can:

Just to clarify. I don’t have a snorkel. My vehicle is original. Has no snorkel and no side air intake.

The last photo shows the air intake. This just points at the back of the front sidelight. So top front corner, of left hand wing. There is about a 2” gap from the end of the pipe. It isn’t just a straight forward pipe though. I will take a couple of photos of the air filter can as well for you.

Are you still talking air filters? Or the overall vehicle?

Here are a couple of photos: