Looking at the many problems people on here are having with their F2's I may try n fix my F1's gearbox and keep it...With another lockdown coming along, will have plenty of time to do so...

Polystyrene tiles maybe?

Does the Freelander 2 have electric power steering?

I drilled mine at the lowest point in the corner, lowest point visable when carpet lifted. 5mm hole seems to do the job and not noticeable. I also have one of those moisture/ damp catchers you can get for 99p in the car, to help my windows from steaming up.

If I can get it out without destroying it, that would be great, I'll just replace the motor and clean it out a little.. all replacement ones are 2nd hand which will all fail in the same way eventually....car too old and worthless to be throwing money at it...

This is excellent Mr Arctic.. thanks for the pic..I need to move where the green clip is, the plastic arm underneath it. This is connected to the dead motor...if I can make a tool to slide in between the black outer cover and the mechanism it may work.. ( long screw driver with an L shape on...

:(Hmmm looks like I may have to destroy it then to get door open.

I tried banging it also..still stuck locked, think mines past hitting and banging, i should have looked at it when it 1st started playing up as hitting it did work...does anyone have a picture of the Passenger LH door lock module with the black cover off. Just so I get an idea of where things...

Hi as per the title Passenger LH door won't open, I've tried everything I think? Bar smashing out the locking module to get it to open. I think one of the motors inside the module is dead as I can only hear one working when I apply voltage to it. Anyone any ideas how to get this door open?

Thanks hippo...yeah that side plate it's quite a chunk of metal...I will see what I can do and keep this thread posted.

This was the thread I was looking for...the guy mentions a special tool of some sort on page 2 post 5 of this thread. Will this be needed? Also he mentions he got a new "already built up" reverse piston housing kit? as a special is required also to fit it all together??? Can anyone shed more...

I never new you could press them out of the rubber molding. I might put my old stock 20 year old landrover ones back in as they were a lot quiter than these new ones I put in a year or two back.

I've already changed the 3 duty solinoids a while back for a harsh shifting fault. Oil should be ok, looks/smells ok, its had 4 to 5 flushes a while back..... I pretty confident it's not solinoids, I've been in there for the hard shifting fault..all seems ok...

Thank you kind sir...I will have a read.

Thanks hippo...I belive it's accessed from the non engine side of the auto box through the wheel arch as I think the OP mentioned, By removing the end plate and I belive you have to drop the engine a bit to gain access.. But never done this so I don't know...

I thought this was the part/parts needed as the OP of this thread mentions. Don't think this is accessible from the top..I think I know which piston you mean thou..the small accumulator ones???? I don't think these cause my problem? Or do they? My symptoms point to this cracked piston I the...

Thanks this would be very useful..I'll search again see if I can find it.

Looks like mine's starting to do this too. Slips in 3rd 4th and 5th not too bad when cold. If I lift of the gas the revs drop back down and the auto box grips again and carries on....I'm pretty sure the symptoms are pointing to this cracked reverse piston I've been reading about. Now my next...

I'd like to stick a gps unit in there...maybe an old android phone just to run a sat nav app.

Soggy maf