You probably won’t do the mileage to seriously worry the transmission, but if there were any other reason to open up the gearboxes, then I’d fit upgraded steel caged bearings (if they’re not already - they do tend to be on TDi engines)

Never tried mondo mode, but I can imagine much less transmission drag… mine felt a little better after replacing the VCU - but mine wasn’t catastrophically bad (although the bearings were shot!) still have bearing noise though. Sounds like it’s the front right wheel bearing…

If we can demonstrate the market (which is about to get a bunch bigger shortly), perhaps it’s worth revisiting this @mbrokof

I used a 3D printer to print a bodge to “fix” the too high clutch pedal on my FL1 1.8. I really needs a new replacement master/slave kit, but instead I’ve printed and installed a pedal stop to prevent the pedal rising too far. Seems to be working a treat - the .stl file is available on request! ;)

Hahaha! Same happened to mine too... strange!

The underbonnet area is starting to look very professional :)

I agree - it sounds as though the VCU has come up to replacement time, but otherwise, I would have been thinking that the support bearings were giving up the ghost as well...

Not too much of a development cost for petrol K-series as from Euro 3 (2001) they were already Euro 4 compliant by NOx, and later Chinese era TFs were homologated to Euro 5 standards, so to be compliant you’d need the injectors, ECU map and the catalytic converters from those later cars to make...

From my understanding, anyone using the engine management ECU from a certain tier one supplier had this capacity - and there are currently mass-action law suits being filed by "no win no fee" lawyers against all manufacturers (including Volvo and JLR) that used that ECU...

I had been working on that via a link who had contacts with MIRA - the idea being for a more affordable test that would then be filed to the DVLA. Unfortunately, COVID somewhat killed the momentum on this project :( Might be worth re-investigating soon, if the whole of greater London starts...

Haha!

Only really after the back box really - and that’s on a slip joint. Just over 40 quid for one of these, but the stainless system is startlingly cheap. Hate the double exit exhaust tips though, but one could simply not fit it! Lol

Thanks -it’s a 2001, so it suspect later type, but will check… thanks Andy :)

Good news! Hippo passed its MoT! only advisory was a small hole in the rear silencer. Hopefully not too difficult to sort out :) the big search for bodywork rust starts when the weather warms up…

Great minds etc etc lol

I'd be tempted to do a hybrid solution - enlarge the existing opening in the inner wing, leave the box section alone, and add as small an extension to the steering arm as possible... Is anyone fitting the less aggressive lift kits? I'd have thought the 20mm version would be a useful gain...

These are lovely cars to work on - really straightforward in the most part. Usually the most challenging part is that they are now around 20 years old - and things don't come apart like they do in a Haynes Manual. But then, when does anything come apart like it does in a Haynes manual??? LOL

I replaced the case and the rubber buttons on the old key fob that is a little worse for wear - and the switches are predictably as vague and variable as ever on that fob, especially the unlock button. Looks like it may be time to warm up Mr Soldering Iron to swap in a pair of replacement...

Thanks Andy - I must've read the wrong column in Haynes manual. I'll get the car up on ramps to do this :)

Thanks Andy rear suspension: front non-adjustable arm to subframe and rear adjustable link to subframe :)