bite his hand off beyden, a lot easier with a genuine defender 200 than a disco one.

doing a 19j-200Tdi conversion and I'v hit my first hurdle. the passenger side engine mount. there's the nut on the rubber bit then theres the big bolt (19mm.) above it going onto the block. How do you remove this bolt? the threaded part of the rubber bit prevents me getting a socket on the 19mm...

200Tdi engined 110CSW will tow all day long, 3-4k will get you a good one 2k ones will be pre Tdi diesels and I wouldn't touch them with a very long barge pole. do the usual checks on chassis and outriggers, doors will probably be starting to rot (it's something you have to learn to live with...

yes piece of ****, a weekend or two. get real, if you can't afford a tombraider 110 yet then save up for one, it'l be less hassle in the long run.

it's axle oil, it migrates along the half shafts and if the oil seals are well past there best allow the oil to get past the bearings and out onto your hubs. The rubber caps would keep it in and some peeps even take out the oil seal and allow the wheel bearings to be lubricated by the axle oil...

300Tdi or Td5, get the wife and kids in one before you buy as the legroom in the second row seats is pathetic, pity to buy one only to find nobody will go anywhere with you. ps. any land rover will get you from leicester to cornwall in four weeks.

I'm in the middle of a 19j to 200Tdi swap and wanted to do some prep of the new engine, when I fit it (about mid august) I will let you know how it runs.

well I have just taken my injectors to a small diesel engineer for testing and/or repair and was told (depending on what was needed) costs would be between £12 and £50 per injector, needless to say it was the latter and I came home with 4 (New looking) injectors, but with £234 less in my wallet...

buy a manual, that'l tell you what oils are needed and quantities, change, oil, air and fuel filters, drain and re-fill engine oil, gearbox oil, transferbox `oil and both axle oils, make sure your swivel joints have oil (or grease) if you havn't got a grease gun, buy one and give your prop...

you can have the whole engine for £75 complete with turbo, starter motor, alternator,4 new glow plugs plus numerous other useful spares, everything works, (I'm still driving it ) I will be taking the engine out next weekend.

I live in Newport south wales and am just changing my engine from a 19J to a 200Tdi so have a turbo that works perfectly yours for £25.

Just bought a 200Tdi from a disco 1 to put into my 110. I heard it running and it sounded sweet, just out of curiosity I whipped out a glow plug and the body of it was covered in oil, NOT the tip, just the shaft, is this normal? or have I bought a swede?

If you are not planning to change your dampers now and IF you get them off in one piece, plaster every thread in copper grease when reasembling,so that when you do come around to changing them.(and it'll be two years before you know it!) then the job will be so much easier.

I'v seen threads relating to cambelt changes on 200 and 300 Tdi engines but not 19j, is the procedure much the same? if not does anyone know how to do it?

with any kind of noise it's difficult to diagnose on a forum so you have to eliminate each moving part in turn. first step would be to jack the front up and put it on axle stands, chock the back wheels front and back and relaese the hand brake, main gearbox in neutral and transfer box in...

the earlier ones had a filler plug and a drain plug because they were filled with oil.but the newer ones (and my 1991 one is a "newer one") have only one filler plug as they should be filled with one shot grease. you normally only have to top up the ones filled with oil and only then when there...

the bolt heads are too close to the swivel ball to get a hammer in.

thanks for all the suggestions, 14 ml spanner is the one but three of them have rounded off, 9/16 is too big and 1/2 is too small, resorted to trying to turn them with big hits of a hammer and chisel. still not moving so might try to weld a bar on and try to turn them that way if the weld...

put the roof on, mot it, take the roof off, simples

prob not this but mine cuts out occasionally after starting and it's the fuel spill pipes loose. I nip them up and all is well.