Hi SV I personally like the 'twins', if they supplied a bigger single then I'd get that. I've dealt with these guys before when I had my Rav4. Good delivery, reasonable price, good quality. Cats Direct :)

It's definitely the switch, Wonkey :)

Gloker Isn't it though? When I got my TD4 earlier this year, opening up the bonnet, or clambering underneath was so much better to work on than anything else I've done before. And as you stated, doing the service is more satisfying, especially with the wealth of cracking info on here. People...

Well, got all the gear now (apart from the DMF, on order as we speak), and have the labour money burning a hole in my pocket (private jobs do come in handy sometimes!) and will book the FL in next week hopefully, I can still drive the beast, but third and fourth gear have to be treated with kid...

Too late, bought and used ;)

Lol it's an easy mistake. When I first bought my FL, I mistakenly called it a 'Landie', to which the seller replied, "No, mate, this is a landie!!" "What you've just bought is a female version of it"...... the cheeky bugger!! :o

Actuator / solenoid, in this case it's one and the same.

Halfrauds, ready mixed OAT, 12 squid. Bought some last weekend.

Exactly right, and yes the door solenoids on the FL are the same ones used on the Rover 75.

Just read your thread Skoda........ it was the wrong filter. Well done mate. Much more satisfying when you do it yourself. And yes you're right, getting the screw back into the bracket and attaching it to the body is a freaking pain, but worth it :)

With regard to the secondary pump, yes you can leave it in place; I did. What you have under your rear arch is the primary pump. Meant to be a pig to change because of crud and rust. My primary is under the rear seat, meaning my 01 FL must be an early one.

Forgot to add, skoda. The bracket screw removal is purely so you have a bit more room to remove the pipes, the bracket will still be attached to the secondary pump. I think that's all I've forgotten to mention..........:o

Hi Exactly for the reasons Dougden stated, use the correct specced gear oil :D

Hi Skoda It doesn't take that long to change the under bonnet filter, just put something absorbent under it when you do change it, as a little fuel will come out. There is a single screw holding the filter bracket to the car body. Remove the screw, then carefully remove the filter by removing...

I would maybe have a look at the VCU bearings first. If you're unsure of the location, have a look on the 'VCU Replacement' thread, some great pics on there ;)

Hi wozza That's quite a common fault, I have a new drivers door solenoid in a box waiting to be installed :(

What about rear diff mounts,, as there are three? Is the vibration a steady vibration, at whatever speed it is you're having this? You say it's front / central, it could be VCU bearings, on the prop. Or a warped brake disc, or a worn engine mount, or a multitude of other bush / bearing related...

Been slowly amassing parts ready to give to the local mechanic, so he can repair my slowly slipping clutch. Parts bought so far: Clutch plate and cover Slave cylinder assembly Release bearing guide Just saving up now for a DMF, and the labour cost, Bob's your uncle!! :D

Not on a bumper, no. And before you say, "Don't judge..........etc.", we give advice to the masses on here, some are more skilled, most are less so, or else they wouldn't need this forum. And while loads of advice on here is brilliant for saving the pennies, as your bumper melting method is no...

This is the thing, Freelaner. With any propriety bumper polish / shine / wax, you can't really go wrong. What you're talking about requires a steady, progressive technique, which undoubtedly gives good results. But imagine the scenario, "Ooh, just a little more heat on there........ oh f#@k!!"...