I used battery for the 12v supply with an inline fuse to relay, then feed from the relay (power) to the lights, that are earthed back to the battery, then the gate/switch feed spliced from just after the headlamp socket, first testing current when the main beam was on, finally the earth from the...

sounds like you had the feed for the dip beam

I got it sorted now :D i double checked the solder joints, put it back together, got SWMBO to hold the bonnet tamper button down, and it all reset...it's a 98 D1...might look around for a spare remote fob, and get it programmed just in case it happens again, looks like somebody had already been...

right found the key, the one i thought was a spare...but the alarm is wailing now...had to disconnect the battery until i can find a solution, and the fob still doesn't work after being soldered...dunno if it had a short and drained the battery in it or what? HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just fixed the tensioner with a new bearing, then belt, the car then had a squeak, the penny trick sorted that, now the damn alarm fob won't work, so the immobiliser is stuck on, i tried using the key to unlock and override it, but the previous owner must of had the ignition barrel changed, so...

just done mine today, in order to have them come on with the main beam the switch wire from the relay has to be connected to the main beam feed wire (as this acts as the switch), you'll need to be fairly confident with car electrics, have a multi meter to check which is the main beam feed wire...

Well it was just as bad as ever this morning so, decided that i have had enough, and did the penny trick...can't believe it...it worked like a charm, but it did make SWMBO smile, then laugh...she said it was the cheapest thing i have done to it yet, and thought at the start i was bull****ting...

i'll make a shiny one, and call it, shim fix 2, and charge a penny more :D

i might have one of those shim kits knocking about somewhere :rolleyes: what i was trying to explain is that people will buy anything, rather than sticking a penny in the belt tensioner, if it looks shiny, and claims to fix it they will buy it...the penny (excuse the pun) did drop some time...

i'm really surprised someone hasn't been selling a shim (same thickness as penny) on ebay yet that magically cures the problem, thanks guys will give it a go, can't be any worse than what it is, after the looks i've had today, anything is worth a go, will check the pulleys tomorrow too

I had a squeak, when the engine was on tickover on my 98 disco 1, i then decided to do the fan belt tensioner bearing, as this seemed like a likely culprit, i did the bearing change, which went ok, however, the drift i used slipped when in the vice :doh: and i thought i had buggered the bearing...

i just had a similar thing, i got worried about the A bar on the front of my Disco 1, so called the insurance company , and said that it had an A bar, and that some companies require you tell them this, they said no worries about that, and that they meant when they ask about modifications they...

Thanks chaps, that worked an absolute treat, all done now, and no annoying squeak when cold, plus new belt...this forum is amazing :D

i'll fit the wheel and give it a go, gonne get SWMBO to push the belt under when i lift it, already broke my finger i think so if more machanical injuries occur, then so be it...lol

ok as we speak i am trying to refit the fan belt tensioner, after replacing the tensioner wheel bearing, which didn't go too badly, the part i am having problems with is getting the wheel back on the tensioner, i presume the recess/hole in the casing bhind the tensioner has to mate with the lug...

that could well be the problem, all i did was clean what i could see in the intercooler connection pipe, yeas it has a new filter just fitted

I changed the cat out for a decat pipe on my 300 tdi today, the car seems amazingly easier to drive now, revs stay up well when changing gear, tickover is a lot better, engine sounds better all round, and at low speeds it's better, also sounds like the turbo is breathing better too, i also...

Thanks guys, i have found the tutorial, but this simply tells you how to fix the seal on the top, thats rivitted on, is there any internal parts that need replacing, or is it just the case of drilling sealing and bolting up?

yes it's a 300 TDI, that does sound like the problem area too...hmmm...will have a look see how difficult it is to access...has anybody done a write up/tutorial with piccies anywhere on here?

i checked the breather on the turbo air intake, and the other side on the black upside down top hat looking thing, they both had oil in, not sure if this is a potential problem or not? could the cat being blocked, or coked up bad, add to the back pressure and cause oil to climb up the...