Not sure I'll ever understand LR's parts list 🤣🤣, as the part you linked should only fit upto the end of MY2002. My 2004 TD4 c/no started 4A so I'm thinking your 05 should start 5A & should use the PCH118134 as that's for c/no's 3A0 onwards (which is the correct hose for my old 04). So confusing🙂.

Hi, what year/model is your one ? Sorry just looked at your 1st post again, looks like pre facelift.

Found this https://images.app.goo.gl/D4PUscxmWA3uCL659

If it's the one in the pic then I certainly didn't have any luck finding one, it only comes with the hoses as far as I could gather. Mine had a small crack where one of the larger hoses pushes on but luckily it's been OK 🤞. I'm off to Newbury LR spares day next Sunday so I'm going to look for...

Cracking work going on there 👏

Unfortunately don't know if it actually died (but I flipping hope it did) & I couldn't stop as I was on my way to Hereford to see son/granddaughter (& my old FL1 which is still going great 🙂). I got the lamps from Newbury LR spares day last year so looks like I'll be paying it another visit next...

Gutted, pheasant flew out of the hedgerow & hit the D2's driving lamp & broke the lens :mad: only taken me 4 yrs to find two decent lens for the ones that were on it when I got it :vb-bomb:

Probably a case of telling the vehicle it has heated rear seats, assuming there isn't another module/control unit to fit.

Ir was an option on D2's but for most markets, my 2001 UK D2 has it fitted & the rear passengers (+ the dog in the 'boot' like it) 🙂. On D2's the rear A/C unit is behind the N/S boot liner.

Just a simple blanking plate will do & costs nothing to make (if you have a drill/grinder/hacksaw). Also mot inspectors can't see the EGR has been 'adjusted' as all the original stuff stays in place !

You never forget your first love, once you've got it running properly again she'll soon be asking for the keys 🙂🙂. Hope the cause of the smoking is not too serious🤞.

I think (again) the top bolt came out OK & replaced with a new one but it's the bottom bolts (both sides) which are the problem which is the same as when I did my FL1 struts. Like you say once you've drilled through the shell will give in.

Is this the confession box ? If so I don't own a welder, yet 😲but I want to get a gas mig soon so I'll be after some advice:vb-eyebrows:.

Not sure on the vehicle but I think it's a nut & bolt job.

I would get some colbolt drill bits.

I had a couple of seized strut bolts on my FL1 I spent hours spraying them with penetranting fluid then with the nut flush with the end of the bolts just hitting them backwards & forwards until eventually they started to move. I also (only) used a single hex impact socket (always try to avoid...

I would grind the head off & then if you have enough room drill out what's left, or once the bolt head is off open the strut enough to get it clear then drill or as said above remove the assy to drill on the bench,best of luck.

As above, where is the broken bolt ?

Hi, on mine I joined the rear brake pipes under the drivers door (right hand drive) so had no access issues when flaring the original pipes (as I didn't want leaks on such a critical system). Can you post a picture of the cheap flaring tool so people can avoid it please,all the best.

I know what you mean. As long as you're familiar with what has to come off (have a practice if not) get all the necessary tools laid out & ready then work as quick as possible trying not to burn yourself in the process! All the best.