My experience of fixing mine, was that it didn't last. A few days yes, until the new switch arrived. They are very cheap. I left the new switch in the glove box...but it was only a week or so before I needed to fit it. A year later everything is still fine.

Another issue is to work the window up and down with the screws holding the regulator a bit loose to check that the rails are true and parallel, and also to not tighten the glass until its bang on central.

If it is the VCU bearings it will be the same whichever way you are turning. Its far more common for the bearings to go than the VCU by the way, although people with skin in the game will tell you otherwise. The one wheel test is to jack up a rear wheel and see how much torque it takes to turn...

Yep He wos right. Its the one bit of pipe I couldn't inspect though.

I'd bet on it being the dreaded thermostat. A bitch of a job to replace. Cost me hundreds. But fixed it

OK, took the old hippo in for its MOT and of course they tagged the brakes, so the garage mucked around, pulled of the inlet ducting and found a cracked vacuum pipe going off to the turbo solenoid. They fixed that with a bit of new pipe. Should see the old gal out. IN the photos that was the...

Mmm. Significantly worse today after me fiddling with the pipes. Suggests its something pipe or seal related. Ordered a grommet as the cheapest thing to replace and the most damaged looking. I'll let y'all know how that goes.

dunno. There's a hose with cloth braid on it just this side of the non return valve that disappears down to the depths of the front of the engine. I meant to label that 'where does this go' because it was obvious where the other hose went - to the plastic box thing! Damned car needs an MOT so...

Hmm. Its not that simple. First of all there is a sort of rubber grommet to seal the pipe into the servo unit. That looks a bit sad. Then there is some kind of non return valve and two other bits of pipe going off to the vacuum pump, some sort of finned plastic box and what is probably a...

Yerrs. Do the TD4s use a vacuum pump as well? Or is the vacuum generated by the manifold? Before I take a gander I would prefer to know the worst case costs... There seem to be a few one way valves and odd bits of pipery in there beyond what I am used to from years ago:( The 'leaky pipe' seems...

Odd one here. I've never noticed it before, but in heavy M25 traffic on Friday, with lots of stop start, I noticed that after three brake applications in a short time I had no servo power at all. I also noticed that there seemed to be a lot of turbo lag. Over a second. (Freelander 1 TD4...

Ah . That must be why I have to change the VCU every 30 miles then, its been deliberately designed to be under severe slip at all times... Sometimes I do wonder at some of the rubbish people talk about VCUs and transmissions.

utter bull****. on mine the bearings and the rubber bushes were shot to bits, new bearings sorted it

Actually its more likley to be buggered VCU bearings than the VCU itself You put a lot of torque through a VCU on a tight corner, and if the bearing mountings are weak, the propshaft flaps around like a big girls blouse. Get underneath and push the front and rear shafts around. If there is...

Researching this problem I came up with this CAUTION: If the power fold mirrors are operated consecutively more than three times, then they will cease to function for a period of one minute. This is to prevent damage to the power fold mirror motors. My mirrors wouldn't fold, but an hour...

yeah. the top hose on the auto splits and goes in two directions. Not sure if there is space or where the stat should ideally go.

Has anyone one this mod to a facelift TD4 AUTO using the machined inline housing from specialist components? If so where did you put it, what diameter were the pipes and what stat temperature did you use? It looks like the top hose divides into several branches - not clear wherer if...

may be blocked filters etc but if you are over 70k miles and its the original fuel pump change it anyway. The ONLY thing that has ever failed to get me home so to speak is a failed fuel pump.

Same here

I had exactly this. It turned out to be totally corroded contacts between the wiring loom and the PCB in the lights unit. So corroded the tracks went and the actual contacts in the connector broke. Short of a massive loom change, the only solution is to cut the connector off the loom and SOLDER...