I am having a go at this now. I confirm There as no water/ damp in the BCU.

Thanks for the reply.

I have tried to get the Nanocom yo talk to the BCU, but all I get is this message. am I doing something wrong? Or is the BCU completely dead, and needs replacing? Has anyone else experienced this message on the Nanocom?

My new Nanocom has arrived. I have done the set up/ unlock codes on it. I think. So here’s where I am at now.

I guess my car is steadily working its way through every known D2 issue there is.......

Thanks for the reply. I have replaced the XYZ switch with a new part, and soldered the wiring where it split on the P clip. previously when i had the flashing M&S lights it did not stop the car starting? I wonder if theres two separate issues going on?

It’s not starting at all now basically.

Hmm. Well it looks like my repair did not work after all? I went out to start it, and the flashing B is back, plus flashing M & S lights, plus bonging. Further investigation needed. It’s raining heavily so I wonder if damp is effecting things.

Ps/ I just searched the flashing odometer issue. So I will need to get that reset. I also did notice some water leakage/ condensation above the BCU area. So that’s the next thing to sort out.

Ps, I don’t know why my reply have appeared 3x. admin maybe can delete the extra ones?

Thanks again to this great forum for tips and help. I had the Flashing B Display, the CL and indicators both give up on me all of a sudden, on my 2000 TD5 auto. I removed the BCU and reflowed the soldering on the main pin/ joins, and it seems to have done the trick, so far? I will give it a...

Thanks again to this great forum for tips and help. I had the Flashing B Display, the CL and indicators both give up on me all of a sudden, on my 2000 TD5 auto. I removed the BCU and reflowed the soldering on the main pin/ joins, and it seems to have done the trick, so far? I will give it a...

Thanks again to this great forum for tips and help. I had the Flashing B Display, the CL and indicators both give up on me all of a sudden, on my 2000 TD5 auto. I removed the BCU and reflowed the soldering on the main pin/ joins, and it seems to have done the trick, so far? I will give it a...

Yes, that’s what I was thinking. Intermittent is not a word you like to hear next to the word eiectrics. Funny how these things tend to appear right around MOT time. Well, here’s to another year of motoring until it’s back to the Pre Mot scramble. Hopefully not welding next time.

Ok yes. It’s all linked to the SRS light on the dash all the same though. So mine light stayed off and it’s gone through the MOT retest since moving the seat forward a bit. I even moved it back, after the test and it’s stayed off. Now I don’t know whether it’s worth going back under the seat...

Ok, interesting. So that’s why there are air bag cables under the seat. I did wonder why on Earth they were there. So potentially there’s a wire from the seat belt buckle to the air bags/ SRS cable. I did not take the trim off to really look. I only poker my hand through. Though I have had it...

There cannot be many out there left that do not have any chassis rot now? I spent months looking before I bought mine. And they all had some rot there. Some more than others. I have since welded a long piece of fresh steel to replace the rotten lower sections on both sides. It seems many people...

I know it’s an old thread, but still just as relevant as ever for anyone still running a TD5. My car is a 2000MY. My has been off the road for three weeks, for pre MOT work. So I got all the welding done, plus some bushes. Get the car to the MOT station 15 minutes down the road, and the SRS...

I looked for months at D2 before taking the plunge. Maybe it depends which price range you are looking at, but maybe not? But 95% D2 i looked at/ enquired about all had some kind of corrosion on the rear chassis. One didn't, but it was rotting badly on the inner front arches instead! so take...

soldered.