The brown trouser moment comes a lot quicker in a scoob, because you're already going a lot faster in it in the first place.

If you're going from a scoob to a landrover, you'd REALLY be dissapointed with a Defender or Disco. Bobbler mentions the freelander wallows into corners. Not that much and i did say 'albeit a taller version'. I've driven both scooby and my freelander, in terms of traction etc, they handle...

If you're looking at a td4, be aware that after driving a subaru you may be dissapointed with a td4's performance. The 1.8k's can be tuned a bit to get more power out. Freelanders aren't too different to drive, with the VCU it handles in quite a similar fashion to a 4 wheel drive scoob, albeit...

No problem. I'm not sure what the Khumos are like as a tyre so i can't recommend them as such (I have General Grabber AT2's) but yes, i recommend that application with new on rear, and then your current Khumos on the front if you were to buy two new Khumos.

I suppose it is possible the spring in the tensioner has lost it's 'spring'. It would be easy enough to do the tensioner without removing the whole cambelt, but i'd use a locking tool to keep the cams in the right place while you're doing it.

Check for play in the lower wishbone joint. This is a known spot for 'thuds' on freelanders. To check, lift corner of car on a jack and give the wheel a bit of a shift side to side and front to back. A good visual sign is if the boot looks collapsed on the joint.

The front disks have steel protection plates (that may as well be as much use as paper plates). If these are corroded or bent, it may scrape or rattle against the disk (if you're sure it's coming from that area). The brakes also have small steel clips holding the pads in place, if one of these...

In my honest opinion, tyres on a freelander should all be the same and the ones with more wear should always be on the front otherwise you risk VCU/IRD/Differential problems. If you're replacing two at a time, new should go to back, old to the front. Never the other way round. Unless you're...

Do you know when the belt was last changed? Sounds like time for a new belt and tensioner at the same time. It's likely the belt is stretching a little bit if the tensioner hasn't moved. Get it checked ASAP before the belt pings and you're looking at new valves. As for the turning in tight...

Check each end of your propshaft for play. If the play is nearer your VCU it's likely to be your VCU bearings. If the play is nearer your IRD, it's likely to be the shaft bearings in the IRD itself.

Which engine is it?

There's a damper on the clutch selector under the car (you'll see a pin slide in and out as gears are changed), make sure it's not deteriorated. A sign that it has worn might be the the gearstick has a bit of play in it. Have you had the undertray off the car? If part of the undertray has...

Hissing from the tank is very normal when you take the cap off. It's just the vapours in the tank escaping i believe. You may want to check the state of your electricals i.e. plugs, leads, dizzy and rotor. When you say it bogs down is it mis-firing at all?

I've got my undertray off at the moment as i'm doing bits and pieces, so will post some pics of my Alu undertray if anyones interested.

You probably won't get the two pieces together unless you find someone who's just started breaking a freeby at a scrap yard or breakers. I got the piece under the petrol cap off ebay.

Is the TD4 really not much different in relation to performance from the MR2? What MR2 was it?

I second it's the inlet manifold gasket. Tis an easy job which can be done in about an hour but some of the studs can be a bit tricky to get to. When the engines cold, run your finger along the bottom of the inlet manifold where in joins the head. You may have water leaking on either left or...

I cleaned out my gauze in my bathroom sink with a bit of swarfega, worked a treat but fooking glad i wasn't at my parents still. My mum would have killed me for the mess it made!

You'll have to remove the pump from the tank, it slips and clips into the pump.

Use the adjuster on the end of the cable to set idle.