Used Mintex on my freelander before, good gear. not had any problems with em just yet.

yes thats the middle silencer.

Here's a link to a few more piccies on that thread. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/what-modifications-have-you-done-100990.html#post1027918

i've some pics of my modded exhaust, one of the reasons for modding was ground clearance and the old exhaust popping off the right hand rubber hanger now and again. I'll see if i can find them.

Yes, MHM recommends this conversion and it would make a great motor but i believe it's yet to be tried by anyone so it would be a hell of a project.

If i remember rightly i used chamions the last time i changed my plugs, taking out NGK's. No problems with the champions so far. interesting thread, i'm keeping a close eye on how you're getting on.

A 'cheap nitrous kit' would be a good way to wreck your K series, those things aren't for road going cars and even the competition K's that have nitrous need rebuilding almost every several hundred miles. If you don't want to go to the expense of a VVC or the direct to head throttle body route...

Not heard of it before but the cables behind the lights may have come away from the switch.

Just once on mine. What year is yours? Should be the same i presume.

Not very tricky at all really with a haynes manual and the help of the internet. the MG-Rover forum is a very good forum for reading etc regarding modifying the K series. The only thing is expense. My throttle bodies set me back £400 alone and an emerald ECU would cost about £500/£600. The 1.8K...

Glad you got it sorted!

The VVC K series has a different torque range from the standard, which may not be so good in a freelander as you want the torque in the lower revs rather than in the higher. I've read and Northern Irelander has confirmed this for me that the 1.8T doesn't have THAT much more power and it really...

The immobiliser will be working okay if the starter motor is working. Is the engine turning over by ther starter motor? If you're not getting current to the spark plugs, it may the distributer cap, rotor arm, or HT leads. Check these first as these are relatively cheap items to replace.

Can't decide what my best mod is. Though i'm quite fond of my spoiler. Oh, and the individual throttle bodies make it sound beastier than a v8 disco :D Most practical mod would probably be my custom sumpguard. Worst mod would probably be my custom exhaust, it fell off when i first made it due...

I'd recommend against one that fits on the boot unless your bikes are quite light. On my dads old trooper the hinges started sagging a bit. I have a roof rack carrier for my freelander. Just don't go under car park barriers with bikes on :doh:

Not seen you post in a while Joe! I take it you've bought the ball joints separate from the arm and will be destroying the old rivets? I wouldn't imagine it would matter which way the bolts go, though i'd be tempted to put them in upside down so any extra thread isn't facing the ground.

Unless you have a door part open / bonnet open / rear window down then this could mean something. Try activating the throttle body manually from the engine bar, if the butterfly is opening and closing properly then it won't be that.

I don't think that was in reply to you. More of an 'no it would not fail it's MOT'.

If you get the clunk when going from first to second gear, it's likely it's the rear diff bushes. If you get the clunk when turning on uneven ground, it could either be the anti roll bar hitting the struts, drop link bars are bent/joints worn, or your control arm joints are worn.

The ones that clip on won't be as strong as the ones where you have to drill. The genuine ones leave a gap of about half a centimeter if you fit them properly (acting a bit like a buffer) whereas it looks like these ones that clip on won't leave a gap (no buffer between the headlight and the...