The 160bhp refers to the K series petrol engine and not the L series. You'd be lucky to get over 120bhp with the L series i believe.

Whats funny about lycra? It compliments my body type very well.

Of course.

Very happy with my 1.8K series. Even if it is off the road at the moment (can't justify the price of fuel vs insurance etc while i'm happily cycling about and keeping fit too).

No ones mentioned the famous inlet manifold gasket :doh: The gaskets in the inlet manifold are more prone to going 'hard' over time and losing their flexibility rather than the manifold itself warping. If it's being lost here, it will be evaporating as soon as it gets down the block.

Here Here!

I've heard of a few people/garages not doing the cam seals correctly (or at all :eek: once) when they don't know their way around the K series. Hope you get it sorted.

I wouldn't use one from a 1.8k on a td4 as the pipe diameter is about half an inch different if i remember correctly. This might choke out the TD4.

you're going to have to give us more information. Ideally if you can, take the engine tray off and inspect the bottom of the engine. Try and see if the leak is coming from ner the filter, from near the cylinder head or from the cam seals if they haven't been reinstalled properly.

Remove the rear silencer (it's only clamped just above the left rear driveshaft and then hung on the rubber hangers). Might need a bit of gt85 or wd40 to get it loose. If the idle etc improves then it's likely the rear silencer has collapsed on the inside and is now blocking gases (extra...

Any oil/coolant mixed together? Whats the oil like on your dipstick, nice and black? Check on the block underneath the intake manifold for wetness. This is a common location where you usually get coolant leaks from the manifold gasket.

I'm not too sure the throttle body would do this if it was sticky/worn. The way the K series throttle is designed, if it were sticky it would cause a delay bringing the revs back down but not cause a delay when the throttle is depressed (unless the throttle position sensor is fecked or needs...

Don't waste your money on the snorkel. If you're worried about water spend that money on a 50mm lift kit but you won't won't want too take it that deep anyway cos of the electrics like you said before. A sump guard is a must. It's pretty to make your own for about £30 for the alu.

Northern Irelander is the guy to listen to. I never got round to replacing the jubilee clips with brace clamps, didn't need to, the jubilee clips worked a treat for me.

Go for your freelander and enjoy it. If you've fixed the head gasket before on your MG you'll be grand doing it again on a 1.8K freeby. Just make sure you get one with the later oil rail and with the gasket recently done (to a good standard). I forget what mileage i got from mine as standard...

Most common knocking noises from/near a front wheel: 1. steering arm ball joint at the bottom of the strut worn 2. driveshaft worn 3. steering joint worn at top of strut 4. Anti Roll Bar drop link worn 5. Anti roll bar knocking against a strut (caused by bumpers wearing off the ARB) 6. Bearings...

Check the following links http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/rear-sub-frame-107636.html#post1092587 http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/another-freelander-noise-39978.html

The rear window dropping is normal in those circumstances. I'd say there is nothing wrong with the immobiliser at all as you say the engine is turning over when trying to start. This wouldn't happen at all if the imobiliser had not switched off. It sounds much more likely to be something basic.

You also said spark from the coil. Where did he check this? at the coil pack itself or at the plugs?

The engine light doesn't usually come on when you turn the key. The oil light, abs and battery light usually do come on, but go out after a while. Make sure there is fuel getting to the spark, you haven't said whether your mechanic hs checked fuel is getting through ok and there is good...