It's the only stage I've never attempted on any vehicle but after seeing what you've achieved then I might have a go with a few panels here and there. Being a mechanic i always do my own oily bits, so it would be nice to complete the job at home.

God I wish I knew how to paint, and when I say paint I mean the whole process of correct prep, technique and the correct grades of paper to use and when to use them. Real credit to you mate, the painting is one hell of a skill to have, especially not having a body shop!!

I've got a 1.2 disco box running 265/75 and as and when I find a 1.4 I'll be switching to it. The 1.2 is ok, but I find living in and being part of a dairy farming area, it's just a bit long in the leg for the country lanes. Good ish on the bypass but if and when I pull a trailer, I can feel...

Don't worry about hijacking, james is a wealth of knowledge that we can all use! The box I've got is a disco box but I'm converting top housing and dropping it onto r380 cross member so it should all fit as per factory spec. I hope!! James, what's the difference in handbrake mechanisms I've...

I had read somewhere that a little trim is needed to clear the r380 crossmember. Just managed to root out a part number on the google RTC6826, diaphragm panel! No wonder I couldn't find anything. Just new to find one now. Thanks for the help guys, I can press on now ;)

Yeah i plan on changing seat box floor plates and tunnel, I've got a box, and props sitting here waiting, it was the adaptor for the tunnel I'm unsure of. So with a 300 seatbox and a 300 tunnel, il need an adaptor plate to mate the new tunnel with the old bulkhead?

The reason why is because it's already got the 300, and i want to put the engine in its correct position and do away with extended this and extended that. The job itself isn't difficult to do as I'm a mech anyway, and just can't figure out the tunnel conversion aspect.

I'm in the process of gathering up all the bits and pieces I need to convert my 90 from lt77 to r380. It's already got a 300tdi but I'm going balls out this spring to change the box and out the engine in the right position. I know I need floor plates, seat box rear prop etc but I'm struggling...

Just be careful with a mirror, it's easy to think its right, when actually it's not. With timing cover off, the woodruff key should be at 12 o'clock, cam on its marks etc. I would have thought there would be a dowel on the end of the crank for the flywheel to locate. There is on most engines...

There ya go then, I was going to say it could be belt giving out if the knock is getting worse. Glad you've found it, lucky though, could of been in for bent push rods there :)

Possibly advanced timing. Whip off the cover on the timing case held on with three 10mm bolts, set crank to tdc and lock flywheel if you can. Should then be able to slip a pump locking pin (9.5mm drill but) into injection pump locking slot.

If your absolutely sure the steering box is centred and your front wheels are out somewhat, then the drag link must be out of adjustment. Sounds like someone's just moved the steering wheel on the splines in the past to compensate for badly adjusted components.

Well the timing pin for the pump is 9.5mm, of which a drill bit can be used. Set your crank to tdc and make sure the locking slot is visible in the flywheel, if you have a flywheel locking pin then insert it. In theory if your pump timing is bob on, you should be able to slide the drill bit into...

Pumps been dti timed on mine, and I've got a boost gauge plumbed direct to the inlet manifold which reads a full 1 bar so that's those two boxes ticked. Feel like I'm hijacking a thread here so I apologise, just hoping to get some answers for all of us that a struggling.

That's my biggest complaint, is that I'm sure those of us having problems should be able to cruise at LIGHT throttle 60, whereas we're actually using 3/4 throttle if not more!! I should say that mine personally will drive quite well around town it's on the bypass it struggles and seems to be...

I'll be watching this thread, mine suffers the same. My setup is disco 300, original lt77 box with disco 1.2 transfer box and I'm really pushing it to get beyond 60-65. As already said if my setup was in the disco as per original spec I bet it would be fine. Considering mine is essentially now a...

I'm seeing a B reg front number plate and the top of a td5 engine..... Please elaborate......

Yes it will allow for more "drop" one one side but wouldn't the shocks bottom out on compression? Or fit extended bump stops, which I guess also limits compression travel.....or.....fit plus 2 shock mounts which then means we end back to square one?? :confused: I think I'll wait around and see...

Yeah it's delayed from first pressing pedal, however cable is adjusted up right, I learnt that lesson the annoying way Some time ago. I could do with finding a trailer somewhere local and stuck 2 ton of sand in it, see how well it pulls then. Warrior, if you foot flat down gets you 65 with a...

Hmm never thought of that, I am doubtful because it does drive well, doesn't need boost to drive round towns etc it pulls it's own weight no bother, that's with disco transfer box. Just seems to be lazy to come off idle. Does anyone's else's 300 use a good 2/3 throttle travel to maintain 60-65...