My thoughts: The ABS reluctor ring is slightly misaligned relative to the centre line of the ABS sensor, therefore at low driveshaft speed the output of the ABS sensor is reduced to the point where the ABS system is assuming that the associated wheel has stopped rotating due to sliding on mud...

One of our TD4 manuals did this during a delivery trip to Conway. Its fine now but showing a lot more mileage on the odometer.

"The grinding doesn’t happen whilst braking,there is a grinding through the brake pedal" I'm a bit confused. What was the outcome?

My method: Carefully hacksaw a slot in the head of each of the poor quality cross head self tappers then use a broad flat blade screwdriver to remove, some may need gripping with a 'mole' wrench. All of these awful self tappers have been replaced with galvanised 10mm self tapping bolts. The...

If those earth points are good then check the bulb holders and associated wiring etc.

Classic bad earth symptoms: Earth points to check: Under bonnet- driver side just left of bonnet switch and driver side rear of vehicle adjacent to lower tailgate hinge behind interior trim panel.

I did notice turning the switch between 3-4 a relay 'click'. There's a yellow relay behind centre console on TD4 whose sole purpose is to run fan on speed setting No 4.

Is it 3 or 5 door?

I am assuming that the engine runs? If so then I would check the wiring harness to the tailgate. The harness suffers constant flexing between the body and the tailgate and is prone to failure. The dim headlamp situation you describe sounds like a bad earth.

Battery voltage has probably dropped very low. Recharge for a couple of hours or use jump-leads to start engine.Re-calibrate rear window by holding centre console switch in up position for a couple of seconds after rear window has actually closed fully. Battery is probably suspect.

At that mileage the pump is probably past its best. Get an assistant to turn on ignition whilst you listen either underneath the vehicle with a screwdriver resting against the tank and the handle by your ear (obviously make sure gear in neutral in case said assistant turns key too far) or more...

The parts are available I recall a recent thread either on here or LRUK forums showing a propshaft rebuild complete with photos.

The sensor connections are prone to corroding and causing warning light errors. Our fleet has the connector pins bridged out to stop the warning light errors and then we simply lift the bonnet weekly to check levels - foolproof.

Treat quarter full as empty and you'll not go far wrong in my experience.

You need to remove the trim panel, 3 or 4 screws along the lower edge and then pull upwards (not easy but it does release eventually) to open the door you need to identify the lock motor/solenoid and manually operate the door lock release rod using a piece of strong wire, a bent tent peg is ideal.

the car idles fine and when accelerating gently is fine, however the moment i hear the turbo start spooling up i get excessive black smoke and acceleration is sluggish. At 50 mph i get the worst symptoms, the turbo sounds like it is "on the hairy edge" coming in and out every few seconds even...

Had a look behind the centre console of our FL1, it seems that this relay operates the heater blower motor on position 4 (highest speed) you could confirm by matching the wiring colours with 'Rave'.

If the fitttings are the originals they tend to be poor quality and require some hacking to remove. Replacing with galvanised or stainless screws and bolts makes bumper removal very simple in the future.

Surely if it were running on oil then you would have mentioned excessive exhaust smoke? I still think that the injectors and fuel pump are continuing to operate briefly after ignition switch off and there is probably a simple way of proving whether this is the case. e.g. Pull the main relay or...

A new crankcase breather filter is always a good idea on these engines, they cost little and can save a lot of problems.